80 Ram Air Solenoid Ground?

Discussion in '1978 - 1981 Specific' started by PaulZimm, Dec 2, 2013.

  1. PaulZimm

    PaulZimm Member

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    Hello, I finally got my new ram air solenoid from eBay:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/270850229297?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

    I pulled off the air induction hood scoop last night and found what was wrong, last time the car was repainted (before I took ownership) the paint had sealed both flapper doors! I used a razor blade to break the paint seal and now it should work - even better with a new $50 solenoid installed. I cleaned up everything, installed new 1/2" weather-stripping and I am about to mount it back to the hood with a little modification. I got a red LED strip that I intend to attach to the inside top of the hood scoop.

    QUESTION: Since the ram air solenoid attaches directly to the underside plastic hood scoop, where exactly does it get it's ground from? There is only 1 wire (that was disconnected when I got the car) and that is the switched +12V line. Does the solenoid get it's ground connection through the linkage to the metal flaps? Seems a bit shoddy, I need a way to get a good ground connection. Many thanks!
     
  2. cws455

    cws455 Veteran Member

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    There is a ground from the solenoid that bolts to the underside of the hood, and the orange wire plugs to the tab on the back of the solenoid. It sounds like your missing the black ground wire from the solenoid.
     
  3. Rene Melten

    Rene Melten Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I would try a continuity test, negative lead to the casing of the solenoid and positive to the male spade. Then actuate the plunger, if continuity is changing when moving the plunger, then the casing could be internally grounded and a wire can be added as the solenoid is mounted.
    Hope this makes sense.
     
  4. PaulZimm

    PaulZimm Member

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    Problem solved: I made my own ground connection by soldering a spade-type connector and slipping it over one of the hood scoop bolts before I tightened it back onto the vehicle. To make sure I had a decent connection, I used a grinding wheel from a dremel and removed a small amount of paint from around the bolt hole.

    Works perfectly - project photos below...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2013
  5. PaulZimm

    PaulZimm Member

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  6. 79CamaroVERT

    79CamaroVERT Member

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    I chrome plated my induction flaps..
     

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  7. CDesperado

    CDesperado Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    That chromed flapper looks good man! Neat idea.. I may have to "steal" that idea the next time I replace my scoop. The challenge is that the metal has to be flawless right? You cant really have bondo/filler on the metal or there would be flaws in the chrome?

    The LED lights on the flapper are interesting. Part of me likes it and part of me doesnt.
     
  8. 79CamaroVERT

    79CamaroVERT Member

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    Funny you should mention that. You are right, they have to be in pretty good shape for a perfect chrome job. I had to go through quite a few to find a good set. Typically the flaps are in pretty good shape, but the frames are almost always pitted (as mine are). If I had to do it again, I would have the flaps chromed and probably prep & paint (maybe powder coat) the frame.

    The "Cowl Induction" is borrowed from a 69 Chevelle (they are now available as reproductions). I thought the "Air Induction" decals looked kinda tacky..
     
  9. 79CamaroVERT

    79CamaroVERT Member

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    The good thing is that most of the frame is covered by the cowl and you really have to get close to see the imperfections. Your light idea is unique, I thought about placing red LEDs inside the cowl so that when the flap opens it looks red inside.. Just a thought.. ​
     

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