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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Twisted_Metal, Oct 3, 2020.
Those lower right bolts are a pain to get at for sure. I did my delete panel with the heads off the car. I believe it was the best time to do it.
where did the "fuzz" come from Terry
Cotton wood trees and dandelions, I suspect.
The evaporator will generally rinse itself with water condensation but when it started leaking A/C oil, everything stuck to it.
I hadn't charged the system for a few years because I knew I had a serious leak... somewhere.
I finally figured out the leak was in the evaporator when I noticed a lot of oil on the lower part of the evaporator case.
That's when I decided I was going to replace everything.
I knew this was going to be the most difficult part of the job.
Wish I would have seen this about 2 years earlier. I took mine (serpentine setup) to a local Thermo King for install, big thick hoses, and an install price to match.
I cleaned up the fender side of the evaporator case and found a couple of screw holes for mounting the resistor pack and relay were pretty well stripped out.
I was gong to fill the holes with marine epoxy and drill them for screws but found a slick tip on a boat forum:
If the screws just need to hold fairly tight to the fiberglass and aren't under a pulling load... Wrap the screw threads with Teflon tape and they will be plenty tight to hold things like the resistor pack and relay to the fiberglass box.
<edit> The Teflon tape on the screws wasn't the best fix.
However... A piece of zip-tie stuck in the evaporator case holes worked beautifully.
(Fold the thin tab of the zip-tie at a 90* angle with a short section of the toothed portion of the tie in the hole.)
The screw threads can bite into it and the teeth on the tie hold it in place nicely to the old threads in the fiberglass box.
The old A6 compressor is out and I polished the valve covers while I had easy access to them.
These 25 year old valve covers cleaned up pretty well with some Mother's polish and a buffing wheel on an old drill.
They were a natural,satin finish when I bought them so they aren't nearly as nice as professionally polished covers.
The ceramic coating on my Hedman headers has held up extremely well for 12 years now. No need to mess with them at all.
I drained the oil from the new Pro6ten compressor because the PAG oil it's shipped with isn't compatible with R12.
The PAG oil will be replaced with synthetic Ester Oil (with UV dye) so I can spot any leaks using a black light.
I'm going to pull the heater box from under the dash and replace the heater core before I reassemble the engine side of the firewall.
Having the heater core pipes out of the way will make it much easier to reassemble the evaporator case with the new evaporator in place.
The “While It’s Apart” syndrome is kicking in on this project.
I spent yesterday cleaning, prepping and painting the passenger fender well.
(SEM self-etching primer and Rustoleum satin black)
Now I find myself fighting the urge to pull the driver’s side fender well and repeat the process.
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with the driver’s side and no reason to remove it for this A/C and heater core project but this one looks so fresh and clean it would be a shame they won’t be identical.
I could promise myself to do the other one “later” but I doubt I will ever have the ambition to get it done.
I’ve already got too many parts and tools scattered around my garage to seriously consider pulling more big pieces and add to the mess.
I guess I will see how much Winter shop time I have when the rest of this project is done.
Do it! Do it now! Lol!
I mean, might as well do it if you have enough materials left over right?
It would drive me crazy if one looked different than the other.