Another problem

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Layne02, Jul 6, 2019.

  1. Layne02

    Layne02 Veteran Member

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    Ok, so I fixed my latest problem on my 80, which was no spark on cranking. Nooow, I have a seemingly bad problem. Car still will not start. This is after I rebuilt motor by the way.

    I am getting spark and fuel, so thought timing may be off. Set to TDC and seemed to be correct , but pulled distributor to reset anyway, just in case I was tooth off. Decided to prime oil pump while distr out. Oil started coming out of the hole and seemed thin. :confused: and I swear it looked like it had green tinge to it.

    Drained oil back out that I just put in and it looked like some coolant came out first , then oil, and then I noticed smell of gas!!!!

    So to recap. New rebuild, hasnt started and seems to possibly have gas and coolant in oil.

    Could head gasket be that bad that it leaked before I even start it? Naturally it has new gaskets and new head bolts torqued to spec. I am in no way a professional builder but, Dang man, I have built a few motors before and never had this happen.

    Having nightmares of pulling this freshly painted motor back out.
     
  2. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Try a pressure test on the rad , and see if it is holding pressure, or pushing fluid into the engine , and some gas in the oil would be expected as it has been getting gas , just not sparking so the gas could be mixing with the oil, the rad fluid , would be a problem
     
  3. tbrostrom

    tbrostrom Veteran Member Gold Member

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    If you're getting fuel and engine isn't starting then you will get fuel into the oil. The more you crank it the more fuel you get into the oil. If it doesn't burn the gas has to go somewhere.
     
  4. Layne02

    Layne02 Veteran Member

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    Well, I put rad pressure tester on it and not only do I seem to have a leak at one head but both. I could find a small amount of air coming out on front pass side right above the id pad, then found another place on driver side with little fluid leaking from under the head. CRAP.

    So, looks like I will be breaking this thing apart. Any suggestions on head gaskets? I have always just ordered a Fel-Pro full gasket set and havent had any trouble before. Always get new head bolts , Think they are fel pro also. This is just a street car, never going to track. Thanks
     
  5. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Make sure you apply Permatex 2 to all the head bolt threads or she will leak coolant.
     
  6. bourbon_scotch

    bourbon_scotch Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    if it were me i think i'd try to get it running and hot and see if it doesn't expand and seal itself
     
  7. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Unless it hydrolocks, with fluid in the piston bores, then you are really pulling it apart, I would think that many leaks , I would start over, and check the heads to be sure they are flat
     
  8. gin man

    gin man Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Back to the original problem of not starting, are you sure you have the valves properly adjusted?
     
  9. Vettenick

    Vettenick Vettenick

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    I wouldn't try to start this engine until some issues are resolved. Pull the plugs out to make sure the cylinders are not full of coolant. Next, are you sure the cam, crank, and distributor are in sync? Quick check is to pull driver's side valve cover, bring engine to tdc, make sure the distributor is pointing at #1, and that both rocker arms have no tension.....you should be able to see both arms level with each other. One other check is to make sure your plug wire firing order is correct. Regardless, I wouldn't crank this motor until the coolant leak is resolved. Make sure the holes on the head gaskets match the block and heads. Good luck!
     
  10. CorkyE

    CorkyE Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Agree with taking care of the leak first, it shouldn't be there after a new rebuild. Put an old L square or some other known true flat across the heads and block deck to check for warpage. As for not starting, like said before, it's going to be a timing issue, whether in the timing chain, distributor, or wires. Hate to see someone have this luck on a new build.
     

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