I'm having a hard time trying to resolve an immobilization problem with my 2010 Accord. I've had the car to 2 dealerships, contacted a friend who is a tech and he gave me a bunch of things to try....obviously no luck. The problem started when I put a new battery in. Changed the battery 3 times since I bought the car. No problems until this last time. Put the battery in, went to start the car. It ran for a second and shut off. Went to start it again and it wouldn't. The CEL (check engine light) came on. At that point, an image of the key started flashing. I pulled the key out of the ignition and waited. The key flashing stopped. I attempted to start the car. It fired right up and continued to run, but the CEL (check engine light) stayed on. This is the way I have to start the car. Three attempts and it finally starts. When the key stops flashing, the immobilization system is shut down; hence the vehicle starts. I was told it could be the chip inside the key FOB. Is that the battery in the FOB? The dealership told me to have new ones put in, which I did. Car started right up. No CEL. I went to start it about 3 hours later, same BS. HELP!!!
You are certainly going to be needing a Honda drivability tech as that is 100% security programming stuff! Give it 6 more days!!!!
That is a problem with car security electronics. The security you get from this electronic nightmare is a bigger problem than it is there to solve. (cure worse than the disease). But, these days they don't give you an option when you buy a vehicle. You are stuck with their mess no matter if you want it or not. Fbird might have something there. It might get better with time IF it is programmed to do that.
Sometimes when these things acts up the fixed is as simple as a fuse replacement. Two dealerships failed to trouble shoot (WOW)... were they Honda dealers BTW? These POS were once actually made mandatory where I live... certain models were deemed high risk for theft, so the Brainiac's over at the DMV got in cahoots with the insurance company and they will ask owners of these certain models of vehicles to have one installed in their cars/trucks by one of their appointed designated (butchers) installers. If you don't comply... then no registration for you, which means you can not put your car on the road. Thank god the DMV Brainiac's and the insurance company waived this rule out about a year ago.
How bout this guy, Or YouTube! Not a Honda, but I had a few Toyota's when battery was replaced that needed to relearn drive idle by starting and putting in drive with E-brake on and don't touch brake pedal.
Disconnected the negative cable and put it back on. No help. Disconnected the negative for 10 minutes and put it back on. Wait 10 minutes before I attempted to start the car. It worked. Went to start the car about 5 hours later. Back to the same B/S. Disconnected both cables - nope. Told to put the key in the ignition. Turn it to on and push the lock button. Do it three times. No help. I keep digging through Google trying to find the answer.
Now you know why the Japanese invented hari kari. Just give that darn Honda a sword. Or, this will fix it.
Had to google some for your model, but have you tried checking and/or removing & reinstalling (if it's good) the ACG fuse? Google says #7 in your interior fuse box, but double check that. This works for intermittent immobilization issues sometimes.