bent pushrods with new roller rockers

[erhan ergin]

I am going to take the intake off and see how things look when I am back after the holidays. I think the valves are fine. Just one lifter went bad but it is possible that the lifters were already not so great as I noticed I was able to push the others in pretty easily as well. I think I should not normally be able to push lifters by hand.
I think the one that collapsed completely because I tightened it too much and further the pushrod came off the back of the rocker and caught it on a bad angle and bent the pushrod. I cannot explain why the other two pushrods bent but most likely similar situation. In any case I will know how bad things are once I take the intake off. Will give an update in January once I get back to it.
Happy Holidays

 

[COPO]

You can push a hyd lifter down but it shouldn’t be easy. My guess is that the lifter seized and acted like a solid lifter and with the preload and 1/2 turn down for an example adjustment, it was too tight and bent the pushrod.

 

[sandlapper]

You need good quality name brand parts and no Chinese knockoffs that were reboxed by someone private. I had someone a while back asking if he could buy my Crane lifter box. WTF.

 

[erhan ergin]

Hi Folks, I hope everyone had a good holiday season. I wish you all a happy healthy 2023. I am headed back to Austin and started looking at what I need for my screw up.
I had already gotten new pushrods before I left. I know I have at least one bad lifter. I also know I used the wrong "thin" gasket between the front of the oil pan and the timing cover as it was leaking profusely. I am going to replace it with
- Felpro TCS 45121 which has the ticker front gasket or
- replace the whole two piece oil pan gasket with Felpro OS 34510 T

I am planning to get a set of hydaulic flat tappet lifters from comp cams or some other known source. I am not sure if I should change all lifters or just the ones that failed (there is just one as far as I can tell)
One question, do I have to go thru the break-in process with new lifters and change the oil afterwards?

If so I may actually look at changing the cam as well. I have a huge cam with a lot of overlap and very narrow LSA. I get 6.5 in vacuum at idle, not good for daily driving.

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[biker]

Good! Glad you are back at it. Yes, new lifters=new break-in. If you do re-use the cam, have a really good hard look at every lobe with a good magnifying glass. Look for any evidence of galling or loss of surface hardness. Look very closely at the old lifters too, they can give you a clue as to what lobes to really look at.
Use a really good break-in assembly lube when putting it back together, make sure your timing is bang-on for initial start up and your cooling system is full and burped so you can get it revving and get the oil pressure up.

I cant remember if you posted your engine specs as to compression ratio, heads, intake etc, but post them up before you choose a new cam. Some smart dudes here who will help you with cam selection. If your current cam doesn't match up well, it makes the engine totally unenjoyable on the street.

 

[sandlapper]

^^^ sound advice

If your pan requires a thick seal: suggest OS34510T over the others. (earlier thin seal pans use OS34509T gasket).
pull pan and timing cover completely off motor--- on Both: fastidiously scrub/scrape away every trace of old gasket and/or sealant. Do likewise with all sealing surfaces (pan rails, rear main cap etc) on block.
You Cannot get them too clean.

Closely inspect all sealing surfaces on pan --- straight edge --- lightly tap flat any puckers around bolt holes --- flatten & straighten as well. Do likewise with Timing Cover's surfaces.

With One exception, do Not use any sealant when installing one-piece gasket; otherwise it's all DRY and No trace of oil either.
That sole sealant exception is at the 4 corners --- there are 2 at where the gasket turns to follow a curve around timing cover --- and 2 more at rear main cap where, similar to timing cover, the gasket turns to follow a curve around the rear main cap. Just a small dab in each of the four corners --- No More. Suggest any good RTV sealant for those corners; nothing fancy.

If timing cover's damper snout seal is questionable; Replace It. Once new seal is seated, lightly lube its lip with any clean grease.

 

[larrylarry]

Valve spring coil bind? I’d take a hard look at the valve springs on the cylinders where the push rods bent. Might have a broken spring.

 

[erhan ergin]

I finally found time to spend on this issue. I took off the intake. Here are some pics. I found that the clip that holds the plunger broke and the top of the lifter came off. I think I can put a clip and reuse this lifter. The other lifters appear to be OK. I need to check them closer but at a first glance they seem fine.
I did find this other piece of metal in the valley. I am not sure what this is. Any idea?
Also I see the intake gasket used is 90314-1. I found 90314-2 online but am not sure they sell 90314-1 Also I found that these heads on this engine are procomp 3002. As far as I can find on here these are not liked at all. I tried to take some pics on the ports. They may have been ported cannot tell for sure.
I believe recommended intake gasket for these heads is Felpro 1266 I am not sure if anyone can comment on that. These gasket on there now seem to match pretty good. I will add more pics when I get a chance.

 

[erhan ergin]

I just realized this gasket they used is wrong for this head. This head does not have crossover but the gasket has opening in the middle. see pic below.
Do you think this would cause vacuum leaks? I checked the Felpro 1266 does not have the opening for the crossover so it is the correct gasket.

 

[erhan ergin]

More questions, the head does not but the intake has the crossover. It is the edelbrock performer eps. Is it OK to use this intake with these heads? What gasket should I use?