bent pushrods with new roller rockers

erhan ergin

Veteran Member
Dec 8, 2019
212
I did some googling, I think the Felpro 1266 is OK. The head does not have the crossover so 1266 not having the opening is fine. I believe the old gasket was OK also.
 

G72Zed

Veteran Member
Sep 8, 2015
4,699
Canada
Use the FP 90314-2, open center does not matter, glue them on with 3M weatherstrip or super-tack so they do not move, Ultra black around the water ports. And, do NOT overtighten the intake......

The FP 1266 is an extra thick (.120) Race Port gasket (2.210x1.310), you do not have "race port" intake runners, far from it.

I would use the FP 1205 and glue them on.....if not the 90314-2.
 

erhan ergin

Veteran Member
Dec 8, 2019
212
I ordered 1266 already. I will see if I can return it. The specific data I found suggested 1206 or 1266, I think 1205 ports end up being too low and does not align with these crappy heads. At least that is what I understood. I am guessing these thick gaskets with big port openings make it hard to seal?
 

G72Zed

Veteran Member
Sep 8, 2015
4,699
Canada
What does your actual intake port openings measure at ?? that indicates what you need for a gasket.

The people who market/cast Procomp heads don't know if it's a head/transmission or pizza they are making or taking about.....

You have no "meat" with a full race port gasket....I use them all the time, on race heads, glued on, and dimpled divider wall, and never use a tq wrench on the intake.
 

erhan ergin

Veteran Member
Dec 8, 2019
212
OK got it. I think the reason they were suggesting 1266 or 1206 was that they are porting the heads and shaving off at the port edges. I will order 1205s-3 which apparently has metal core that makes them a bit more durable. I did measure the ports to be ~ 2.01 x 1.01 but they seem to vary a bit.

Can anyone comment on the small piece of metal I found in the valey. I cannot figure what it is. It is a very thin piece of metal that seems to have been pushed in from the middle.
 

G72Zed

Veteran Member
Sep 8, 2015
4,699
Canada
You would be good with a 1204 sized gasket as well, maybe a little trim.

I have seen so many "good" heads that have been "ruined" by someone opening up the entrance and "gasket matching" the heads....then wonder why the engine does not perform, or accelerate as before.
 

erhan ergin

Veteran Member
Dec 8, 2019
212
I searched for hydraulic lifter repair on youtube and one guy shows disassembling the lifter and like you said it is the piece that goes under the part with the little orifice. It is a thin flat piece of metal. Looks like all from the same one lifter. There is a small piece missing. I hope to find it tomorrow. I ordered couple of Melling lifters. I am going to use parts from it to fix this broken one as this one is broken in with the cam and I do not want to go thru a complete break in process. If I do I might as well replace the cam.
 

COPO

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Sep 15, 1999
23,113
The Moon
If the cam is giving you 6.5” of vacuum at idle I’d be changing the cam. If you fix that lifter are you not worried that it could let go again and destroy more internals? I would be.
 

erhan ergin

Veteran Member
Dec 8, 2019
212
I think the issue with the lifter is the clip broke as I put the pushroad at the edge and rotated the crank. I am not sure what could go wrong with it if I replace the clip and the small plate under the orifice?
I agree about the cam being not a very desirable one. I was hoping to measure the cam and get an idea what it is and decide after that. I tried many things to see if I can improve the vacuum. I kept thinking it was something else causing the low vacuum. I advanced the cam 4 degrees, I checked for leaks all over. I messed around with timing and carb tuning. I took it to an old time mechanic who said this was a solid lifter engine and messed up my timing cover gasket and caused huge oil leak. I was changing the rockers because of the same reason. I thought maybe full roller rockers (still 1.5 ratio) would give me a little more vacuum.
In order to change the cam I need to remove the condenser (along with the radiator). I need to get the refrigerant captured. I need to get the car running to do that. If it were not an AC car I would do it right away. Get a streetable cam that has decent idle, get new lifters and be done. I may even go retro roller rockers. For now I am just trying to button things up and get the car running and go to the next step when the weather gets nicer. We have a ridiculous ice storm here in Austin TX. I am literally stuck at home as my drive way is blocked by broken tree lbranches.
 




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