bent pushrods with new roller rockers


Veteran Member
Apr 22, 2015
A lot of times I try to move the AC condenser out of the way without disconnecting the lines. I don't know how much slack these Camaros have in the lines.


Veteran Member
Oct 9, 2020
Get some friends and push it. Sounds like too much of a sh!t show right now, so wait till spring to fix it right without bandages.
^^^ this ^^^
That extra part sitting there looks like a mangled lifter part.
^^^this^^^ it IS part of the lifter's METERING VALVE
I searched for hydraulic lifter repair on youtube and one guy shows disassembling the lifter and like you said it is the piece that goes under the part with the little orifice. It is a thin flat piece of metal. Looks like all from the same one lifter. There is a small piece missing. I hope to find it tomorrow. I ordered couple of Melling lifters. I am going to use parts from it to fix this broken one as this one is broken in with the cam and I do not want to go thru a complete break in process. If I do I might as well replace the cam.
Bad Plan --- do Not mix n match lifters' internals. Take those lifter pieces and stow in a glass jar as example of what Not to do. You're far more likely to have success by simply replacing that boinked lifter with one complete New lifter you've ordered. Use assembly paste on it's face Only & on it's cam lobe --- break in motor as though all were new. * First --- *FIND THE MISSING BIT(s) !

** Best guess is: an operator over-revved this motor --- causing it's lifters to pump-up and thus forced retaining clip out and puked it's valve guts into valley. You'd be exceptionally fortunate IF some of the shrapnel hasn't fallen into pan and also run thru oil pump (thus damaging pump).

*** might be more cost effective in long run (and for confidence) to buy a $120 summit cam & lifter kit that'll work with your springs --- such as summit K1102 --- break in properly

erhan ergin

Veteran Member
Dec 8, 2019
Thanks for suggestions folks.
1- This was not overrevved on anything. I messed up. I was replacing stamed rockers with rollers and I put the pushrod right at the edge (I think) rather than at the center of the lifter.
2- I found the exact same lifter (it was melling brand) and I took all of its internals and put it on my old lifter. I rather do this than go thru a break in for one lifter.

Unfortunately I got other issues that stopped my progress.
1- The crank/harmonic balancer bolt is not holding. It keeps turning (after I have rotated the engine a few times to adjust the lifters) I think I need to rethread or at least clean the threads and get a new bolt. I looked for one at local hardware store. Apparently 7/16-20 grade 8 bolts are not common. They had grade 5. I bought it just to help check the threads ion the crank. I also have a thread chaser. I hope I do not have to rethread it.
2- One of the intake bolts snapped as I was taking off. I could get the intake off and there is quite a bit of the bolt left sticking out of the head but it is quite stuck in there. I tried welding a bolt on it but my welder is a cheap AC unit so I cannot get enough heat. I am looking at other ways to remove the broken bolt.

This car has been fighting me from the day I bought it (now 5 years). I put maybe 2k miles on it and could not get any enjoyment out of it. I had several Camaros in my youth from 1976 to an 85 Z28. This is by far the most expensive and the worst. I got this of Bring a Trailer. Paid a ton of money thinking it is turnkey classic. Actually got it for my wife's 50th birthday. She won't drive it.
Never buy a car sight unseen. It is a simple rule :)


Veteran Member
Apr 22, 2015
Oh man, it's too bad you don't have a gear head buddy to drink some beer and watch your progress and point out a few tips from time to time. So, you bent those pushrods by turning the engine over by hand? by the harmonic balancer bolt? I don't know how you get an intake bolt stuck in the head with around 20 ft lbs of torque, probably too long. You might get by with a longer bolt on the harmonic balancer but I wouldn't use it to turn the engine over anymore. Keep picking away at it and good luck.


Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Sep 15, 1999
Ontario, Canada
There are services out there that will drive to your place and fix that balancer bolt threads. Either chase it or tap it or use a high tech heli-coil.

When turning the engine with the balancer bolt, always remove the spark plugs. Rather than using the main bolt, use 2 long bolts in the pulley threads and using a bar, turn the engine this way by hand.


Veteran Member
Feb 7, 2003
Conroe, TX
For sure. Guide plates are not just bolt on and go. The mounting holes are somewhat oblong to allow for some adjustment. I'm using adjustable ones that allow you to independently align the intake and exhaust pushrods. Takes time, but it works out well. Probably not needed on vortec heads since the valves arent weirdly offset.
Do the adjustable guide plates have to be tack welded in place after setting, or is that just an optional thing?


Veteran Member
Dec 7, 2014
Do the adjustable guide plates have to be tack welded in place after setting, or is that just an optional thing?
I have not tacked mine yet, but I'm also not done playing with my engine yet. I torqued my studs down without tacking the plates and nothing has moved in 2 years. And I have checked 4 times since install.
Long term, when I have the final version of the engine, I will tack them.

erhan ergin

Veteran Member
Dec 8, 2019
Hi Folks,

I have been spending time on the camaro. I ended up taking off the passenger side head. It appears the head gasket gave out at the #8 cylinder in the back. Let me know if you agree or disagree. The piston and the head comb. chamber area is cleaner than the other cylinders which suggests some coolant got in there. Although the spark plug looks fine. There was no smoking and after I updated to an aluminum radiator it kept pretty cool (~195 degrees).
I was sold this car as having an internally balanced 383 stroker but I think that was a lie. The piston says SPO 00173 which seems to be hypereutectic sealed power (relatively cheap) 350 pistons. I wonder if there is a way to tell (maybe measure the stroke?) without looking at the bottom (cannot get the oil pan off unless I lift the engine)
Some questions:
1- Would this head gasket issue cause rough running and bad vacuum? I am guessing yes.
2- Should I take the other head off as well?
3- I could not get the head bolt in the middle of the two middle cylinders off without taking off the springs as the bold was too close to the spring base so socket could not get in there. Is that normal or it is just that these are cheap heads?


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