erhan ergin
Veteran Member
- Dec 8, 2019
- 212
Head gasket that came out is Felpro 7733PT. Is that a good choice I just continue with?
bent pushrods with new roller rockers
- Thread starter erhan ergin
- Start date
erhan ergin
Veteran Member
- Dec 8, 2019
- 212
I am trying to clean the surfaces and looking closely at the condition of the deck. Attached is a pic of the area around #8. The back side where the head gasket gave out appears to have a lot of imperfections. I tried to clean it up but it does not appear to be gasket material. Cant really say what it is. I am starting to think that someone put some lipstick on this engine and sent it on its way. Can you guys please zoom and comment? The deck appears rough enough that it will need resurfacing? The more I dig in the worse it looks. I am starting to think it is best I take the engine out at this point. Thanks for any suggestions.
Attachments
Honestly it's really tough to judge that from a picture, it's easy in person when u can touch it and get right close up.
If the roughness you are and feel is raised, it may well be gasket material, but if it is pitting, that's a tough call.
Using a razor blade to carefully but deliberately remove any suspected extra material would be my first step.
Once you know you have a clean surface, inspect for any pitting. If any pitting breaches an oil return, coolant passage or cylinder bore edge, it might be time to pull it. Look at it in a way that can logically diagnose how coolant could have got into the cylinder. If pitting doesn't look to be the culprit, it may be warping (see below).
If pitting doesn't look to be an issue, you need to lay a straight edge across the deck in a few different planes and check for warping with a feeler gauge between the straightedge and deck surface. Do the same on the head surface.
If you dont find warping or pitting, head gaskets can fail from improper install and torquing. So, keep an open mind. You might be able to put it back together.
If head gasket torque looks to be the culprit, make sure you check/retorque the other side.
If the roughness you are and feel is raised, it may well be gasket material, but if it is pitting, that's a tough call.
Using a razor blade to carefully but deliberately remove any suspected extra material would be my first step.
Once you know you have a clean surface, inspect for any pitting. If any pitting breaches an oil return, coolant passage or cylinder bore edge, it might be time to pull it. Look at it in a way that can logically diagnose how coolant could have got into the cylinder. If pitting doesn't look to be the culprit, it may be warping (see below).
If pitting doesn't look to be an issue, you need to lay a straight edge across the deck in a few different planes and check for warping with a feeler gauge between the straightedge and deck surface. Do the same on the head surface.
If you dont find warping or pitting, head gaskets can fail from improper install and torquing. So, keep an open mind. You might be able to put it back together.
If head gasket torque looks to be the culprit, make sure you check/retorque the other side.
sandlapper
Veteran Member
I agree, it's tough to tell deck integrity from a lone, poor pic. Try cleaning again w/ single-edge razor blade but also use a penknife.
Tell us what heads you have? are they GM? If so, what is casting number?
YOU yourself can easily verify stroke. You have a head off already. Use a decent steel rule or caliper. Roll motor thru by hand --- pick any cylinder and position piston at Bottom dead center --- measure from deck to top of piston and record that --- then roll that piston thru until it's at Top dead center --- measure again from deck to top of piston and record that.
If deck Never cut/milled AND/OR piston itself, measurement #2 should be approx 0.025" to 0.050" Record that and post here.
If stock 350, measurement #1 MINUS measurement #2 should be approx 3.48"
BUT IF 383, M1 MINUS M2 ~ 3.75"
Tell us what heads you have? are they GM? If so, what is casting number?
YOU yourself can easily verify stroke. You have a head off already. Use a decent steel rule or caliper. Roll motor thru by hand --- pick any cylinder and position piston at Bottom dead center --- measure from deck to top of piston and record that --- then roll that piston thru until it's at Top dead center --- measure again from deck to top of piston and record that.
If deck Never cut/milled AND/OR piston itself, measurement #2 should be approx 0.025" to 0.050" Record that and post here.
If stock 350, measurement #1 MINUS measurement #2 should be approx 3.48"
BUT IF 383, M1 MINUS M2 ~ 3.75"
erhan ergin
Veteran Member
- Dec 8, 2019
- 212
Thanks for the feedback guys. I did stroke measurement already it is definetely not a stroker. I am right around 3.5" not close to 3.75"
The heads are aluminum ProComp heads. Based on some threads I read here they are not liked at all. As I took off the passenger side head I could see why people complained and as I am attempting to get the driver side off I am starting to agree. The head bolds are blocked by spring base rings as they are cut all over the place. I doubt this is a common issue. I have to remove the valve springs on the middle cylinders and for the driver side so far the #1 cylinder. Also the head bolts are tightened well above 65ft-lbs I am not sure this is normal when you have aluminum heads on iron block. I have to use breaker bar to loosen them. I hope I can get them off without breaking one. I already broke 1 intake bolt as it was rusted in and a rocker arm screw in stud. That was the reason I took the passenger side head off as I could not get the broken bolts out.
I continued cleaning the deck and some of the imperfections are cleaning up with a little more work. Deck may be OK. I will use a straight edge once I am done cleaning.
I am using brake clean, engine degreaser and carb cleaner I assume these are OK to use as well as plastic brush, red scotchbrite, paper towel, a razor and some plastic scrapers.
The heads are aluminum ProComp heads. Based on some threads I read here they are not liked at all. As I took off the passenger side head I could see why people complained and as I am attempting to get the driver side off I am starting to agree. The head bolds are blocked by spring base rings as they are cut all over the place. I doubt this is a common issue. I have to remove the valve springs on the middle cylinders and for the driver side so far the #1 cylinder. Also the head bolts are tightened well above 65ft-lbs I am not sure this is normal when you have aluminum heads on iron block. I have to use breaker bar to loosen them. I hope I can get them off without breaking one. I already broke 1 intake bolt as it was rusted in and a rocker arm screw in stud. That was the reason I took the passenger side head off as I could not get the broken bolts out.
I continued cleaning the deck and some of the imperfections are cleaning up with a little more work. Deck may be OK. I will use a straight edge once I am done cleaning.
I am using brake clean, engine degreaser and carb cleaner I assume these are OK to use as well as plastic brush, red scotchbrite, paper towel, a razor and some plastic scrapers.
erhan ergin
Veteran Member
- Dec 8, 2019
- 212
Can anyone comment on the pistons? They appear to be older Speed Pro .030 bored cast pistons. The 4 valve relieves are a little different compared to newer pistons that I checked online.
The writings on them are:
SP0.00173 4.02876 5999113
it also has 2802 over 03/07 on one side.
Could not find any reference to these online.
I am guessing 03/07 is a date. SP0 is speed pro.
The writings on them are:
SP0.00173 4.02876 5999113
it also has 2802 over 03/07 on one side.
Could not find any reference to these online.
I am guessing 03/07 is a date. SP0 is speed pro.
Well...make lemonade. You would not be the first and wont be the last guy to buy a fake "stroker". 350 is still a very good engine. If it had good compression and oil pressure before disassembly, you might have a good short block to work with. A good head guy can make sure your pro comps are set up well (valve seat seal, guide/seal health), and the sealing surfaces are good to go. He can also make sure springs match the application.
You could put it back together and run it, or pull it, go thru it all, sell the heads, buy what u want, or sell the whole thing and find a good crate engine.
You could put it back together and run it, or pull it, go thru it all, sell the heads, buy what u want, or sell the whole thing and find a good crate engine.
erhan ergin
Veteran Member
- Dec 8, 2019
- 212
I am not too worried about it being a stroker or a 350. At the end of the day it is a low tech dime a dozen engine with abundant parts availability. I am a little surprised a reputable site as Bring a Trailer allows crooks like this on their site (I bought this car from BTA). I will make sure and toss it back to BTA when I am done with it and make sure and expose the site and the sellers in my listing.
Here is a link to when I bought it:
bringatrailer.com
BTW the "original" engine which is supposed to be rebuilt is complete trash.
I will post details when I put it back on the road. I am sure I will need some input as I continue.
Thanks for all feedback.
Here is a link to when I bought it:
1970 Chevrolet Camaro RS
Bid for the chance to own a 1970 Chevrolet Camaro RS at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #25,677.
bringatrailer.com
BTW the "original" engine which is supposed to be rebuilt is complete trash.
I will post details when I put it back on the road. I am sure I will need some input as I continue.
Thanks for all feedback.
You really do have a great looking car. If the body is as solid as it looks, I'd rather have a solid car and work on the engine as needed.
Definitely document everything and let B.A.T. know asap that you intend to dispute the transaction. If they have some sort of process or insurance regarding fraudulent sales, don't let it go too long.
Definitely document everything and let B.A.T. know asap that you intend to dispute the transaction. If they have some sort of process or insurance regarding fraudulent sales, don't let it go too long.
cadillac_al
Veteran Member
Yeah, that is a beautiful car with a run of the mill engine. A car as nice as that is worth putting a $4-5k crate engine in. Your engine is still fixable though.
