Hi guys , looking for some advice on a cam choice . Rebuilding a 350 in my 73 lt/rs/z28 . Is a matching numbers car so trying to keep it fairly stock yet get as much performance as possible. Had it bored 30 over and have flat top je pistons for it , heads have been ported etc . Would a person stay stock cam or go roller cam . Car is m21 with 373 gears . thanks
Best cam
- Thread starter Weatherby
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Used to be a flat tappet cam, slop some STP on it, no worries. These days it's a lot different. If the cost factor allows I'd certainly go with a roller cam with good lift and moderate duration. I'd also look at a complete kit that eliminates worry about the dist. gear, fuel pump rod, and camshaft end control. Even with the large chamber heads with the flat top pistons car should run pretty darn good.
Personally - I'll never use a flat-tappet cam in a SBC again. Seen too many problems.
That said, I understand if you want to keep the car original. The CompCams 12-106-3 is very similar to the factory L82 cam which was used in Corvettes and Z28s of that era. It would keep the original vibe.
Understand that you will need to run a flat-tappet-specific oil like Driven's Hot-Rod oils if you want the cam to survive.
That said, I understand if you want to keep the car original. The CompCams 12-106-3 is very similar to the factory L82 cam which was used in Corvettes and Z28s of that era. It would keep the original vibe.
Understand that you will need to run a flat-tappet-specific oil like Driven's Hot-Rod oils if you want the cam to survive.
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It's a 4-speed car so I'd be thinking duration could be up a little to help. If roller with tie bar lifters are used you will have a little chatter in there that sounds a little like a solid FT. Match the lift to the flow of heads and springs.
What's going to be the final compression ratio ? and, are you using the original Qjet and cast iron intake/exhaust manifolds ?
If around the 9 - 9:5 range, I like the one that Lowend mentioned (222 @ .050, .447 on a 114 LSA)
Use a good lifter like the Howards direct lube 91116 combined with Driven BR30 oil for the first few hundred miles, then a quality oil with the correct add pak for FT cams, like Valvoline VR1 10/30.
Make sure your lifter bores are in good condition and the lifters can spin freely in them, between that and the wrong oil/spring pressures, that's when most of the issues rears it's ugly head.
If around the 9 - 9:5 range, I like the one that Lowend mentioned (222 @ .050, .447 on a 114 LSA)
Use a good lifter like the Howards direct lube 91116 combined with Driven BR30 oil for the first few hundred miles, then a quality oil with the correct add pak for FT cams, like Valvoline VR1 10/30.
Make sure your lifter bores are in good condition and the lifters can spin freely in them, between that and the wrong oil/spring pressures, that's when most of the issues rears it's ugly head.
Chevyforever
Veteran Member
How about the version of the 1973 Z28 "962" hyd cam.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-1122/make/chevrolet?retaillocation=int
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-1122/make/chevrolet?retaillocation=int
HOGDADDY
Veteran Member
I have said it before; The smallest Lunati Voodoo hydraulic roller has excellent street manners but since it's billet roller it requires a different pushrod or better yet, go with an electric fuel pump.
I agree with Lowend. I would not use a flat tappet camshaft.
I agree with Lowend. I would not use a flat tappet camshaft.
I would buy another Elgin cam in a heartbeat. Never had any trouble with the ones I have broke in. I have had good luck with some Summit cams also, I will never buy a Comp flat tappet cam again as after 30 minutes it lives up to it's name "flat tappet" then buy another one.
If you are not constrained to a budget so to speak, then there's many ways to tackle this. Hydraulic Roller cam with all the correct supporting parts is a move in the right direction. And if that's the case, a nice thin metric ring pack is next on the list...if not first.
You can get a lot of performance from "stock" parts paying attention to details and setting a good build plan right from the get-go.
I recently bougtht a new Edelbrock Performer Plus camshaft. Had really good luck with those both from reliability and performance. Then I saw that they have bought out Comp Cams and my new cam sure has a different look than the old cam. White box, rougher looking casting. Might be an expensive door stop?
