Best electric fan setup

Discussion in 'High Performance Modifications' started by rapom, Mar 20, 2021.

  1. flybye70ss

    flybye70ss Veteran Member

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    I just upgraded to a dual fan setup from Keith at Customworks. I highly suggest you check them out, they are a sponsor on this site. I also got the dual fan relay and the closeout panel with bracers. It all came together quite nicely and makes the rest of my dirty bay look like poo. Take a look at the before and afters:

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  2. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    I have found "overheating" issues with some car's that had the wrong timing curve (not enough) bad AFR's and incorrect pulley ratio for their setup, add in constant low RPM cruise and/or OD transmissions and the problem get's worse. Just saying.

    I have also found a well engineered single 16" puller works well, and has more surface area then dual 11.5" fans.
     
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  3. dickeymoore

    dickeymoore Member

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    Lincoln Mark VII electric fan off a 94-96 mark VII
     
  4. mrluckies

    mrluckies Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    A few things to check for a car overheating at idle:

    1. as G72zed says, not enough base ignition timing will cause the car to overheat. This is because the late timing causes the fuel to still burn as the exhaust valve opens and the combustion process is happening as it goes out the exhaust. Most engines like 12-16 deg of base timing. Make sure you verify your timing mark on the engine!!!!! I’ve seen a few engines, including my own, where the timing mark is off by a few degrees. I used a piston stop in the spark plug hole to verify. If you don’t know how to check, ask and I can explain.

    this solved my idle overheating issues with a 3 core copper and a clutch fan with no shroud on a mild 454 in 100 deg summer heat in bumper to bumper traffic.

    2. for an electric fan setup, verify what your alternator is putting out at idle with the fan on. Check the voltage at the back of the alternator, at the battery and also at the fans while they are running at idle. It could be the alternator isn’t able to keep up at idle or that your wire from the alternator is too small. The charge wire should be at least a 6 or 8 awg. 6 preferred! This assumes the battery is in the engine compartment and not the trunk. The longer the wire the bigger the gauge (smaller number) needed.

    3. I’m not saying that high flow water pumps will cause overheating at idle, but it is true that too fast flow will not allow the radiator to do its job. Heat transfer takes time. And if the water moves too fast through the radiator it doesn’t have time to shed its heat. That is why dual and triple pass radiators work better than single even though they don’t have bigger radiator surface area. I believe it’s also why gm went to the smaller upper radiator hose on later second gen camaro, because the smaller diameter restricts flow and slows down the fluid going through the radiator giving more time to cool on the radiator.
     
  5. Camaro Joe

    Camaro Joe Member

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    Go with a C&R aluminum rad with dual 13” spal fans. 6940DBA7-911E-40AD-A194-E3E05BA96035.jpeg AD0CD7A9-7EE7-45C5-9AA0-A1E707CD65A8.jpeg
     
  6. Bandit723

    Bandit723 Veteran Member

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    I put in a Dewitts aluminum rad with 2 ROW 1.25" TUBES and use the spal dual 11" electric fans cools just great
     
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  7. slamin69

    slamin69 New Member

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    I think I answered this before. The Ford mark 8 fan is better than any aftermarket fan on the market. They flow 4500 cfm and are a 2 speed. The can be had on eBay or mane a salvage yard near you. They go for $70 and up on eBay. The wasted a lot of money on fans and radiator combos until o got this fan. Ron Francis make a controller for it.
     
  8. DesmoEd

    DesmoEd Veteran Member

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    I went with one of these about 10 yrs ago and it has been flawless. It along with an Edelbrock high flow water pump control temps perfectly. The huge open RS nose provides so much airflow I had to progess from a 160* to 180* stat to get it to remain at temp while freeway cruising.

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    https://entropyrad.com/

    The 3000 cfm dual fans wont even cycle on when normal driving on a 70 degree day, it pretty much sits on the t-stat and runs 180*-185*
     
  9. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    Old picture, but went with Flexalite

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  10. Sektion8

    Sektion8 Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    This ^
    Drivers are busy driving. Not getting the jump on temps before they run-away.
    I've seen great setups, that run one fan full time, and the second kicks-in as required. Avoids screaming vs. boiling
     
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