Best way to replace a bad prop valve or combination valve.

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by Blu-By-U 79Z, Sep 23, 2013.

  1. Blu-By-U 79Z

    Blu-By-U 79Z Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    So i feel like this is a beaten horse... Ive tried to read and it seems if you buy just a brass valve then in time it will just leak and destroy any hard work that you did below the valve. (i.e. paint work or powder coat)

    Ive seen some people show how they plumbed separate metering blocks and then an adjustable prop valve. This seems like an alright idea. But im not sure what all mods will be needed to use my stock style brake lines... The main issue is that mine are stainless steel and without the correct tool, flaring them are impossible. So... I could ad some steel line to the extra parts for this set up but will these parts require the fittings to be changed? Because my lines cant be reflared.

    Than i seen where wilwood sells a complete proportioning valve.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the link:

    http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-11179

    It seems like a good deal for the price. However im still running into the same issues with the stainless lines. Im not sure if the stock fittings will fit this prop valve. I think it will work with our cars. If im wrong please feel free to correct me.

    Im getting close to getting my engine build wrapped up but id like to have brakes come time for the first start. So please help me figure out my deli ma. Im all ears. Thanks for your time. -Matt
     
  2. phat80

    phat80 Veteran Member

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    high matt

    I'm looking for a prop v.v.v solution too. I sent an email to MuscleCar but haven't heard back from them.

    I ordered the Inline Tube 7pc s.s brake line set for my 80 today. I'm looking for an AC Delco prop V.V.

    Hope you can drum up a solutuion.


    Larry
     
  3. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'd like to know as well since I'll be adding this in, along with a bunch of other brake upgrades, this winter.
     
  4. HyPer

    HyPer Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Since I have 4 wheel disc, then this may not help any, but what I did was use a T splitter off the front brake MC lead line, then put each front wheel's brake line into the ends of the T. Then for rear, I got an inline connector(Straight connection) to bypass prop/combo valve to feed rears directly off the rear brake MC lead line. This way, it makes it so the size of your rear brakes have to be proportioned to your front brakes, which limits any pressure adjustment for braking ratio, but I'm currently sitting at about 60:40(going by caliper piston throw and diameter). I got larger piston calipers a while back, but before that, it was closer to 70:30 ratio.
     
  5. Blu-By-U 79Z

    Blu-By-U 79Z Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Thanks for the replies. I still havnt found much info on the site about it. You would think someone would make a good repop.
     
  6. Blu-By-U 79Z

    Blu-By-U 79Z Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Doing some research the wilwood prop valve wont work due to all of the inlet and out lets being 3/8 - 24. The factory lines are different.
     
  7. Blu-By-U 79Z

    Blu-By-U 79Z Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    bump
     

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