Body bushings metal vs polyurethane?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by JOEY72camaro, Apr 27, 2020.

  1. 70-camaro

    70-camaro Veteran Member

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    I have often wondered why everyone says to run solid and not poly bushings with subframe connectors. I understand solid subframe connectors may make the car more rigid but I already have polyurethane bushings and they are only about 4 years old and have thought about putting in subframe connectors but haven't for this reason.
     
  2. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    This is what I found for a reason to use solid bushing , with subframe connectors

    The reason for solid bushings is to avoid cracking at the body where the sub bolts to.

    The connectors are solidy mounted to the rear body then welded solid to the subframe. If the subframe where allowed to move and flex as it would with pliable bushings it would cause the body to crack at the floor around the nut cage. Bad news.
     
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  3. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    I thought everyone said to go with solid bushing with subframe connectors is because it would be a huge pain in the butt to change them out (assuming the connector is welded in, not bolted on)
     
  4. flht99b

    flht99b Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I have metal bushings and the subframe connector's are bolted to the sub frame and car in the rear. Rather do that than have to cut the welds in the event the subframe needed to removed.
     
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  5. HB_81Z28_80870

    HB_81Z28_80870 New Member

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    I am also running solid mounts in my 81 Camaro Z28 with T-tops as they are almost a must, do to possible body twist on hard acceleration. I also have welded in sub frame connectors. I was looking to change the solid ones out at some point, but a friend of mine I spoke with had a face of fear after I told him what I was wanting to do. Either way I procrastinated doing the job & decided that leaving them was the best way after reading an article in Super Chevy about this topic.
    Hope this helps.
    I have posted a link to the article that you can read to help make up your mind on what direction you want to go.(Just right click after you highlight & choose open link)

    http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/additional-tech/1406-camaro-body-bushings-resto-shop
     
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  6. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    I had all three types. I vote solid 99% unless 100point resto then rubber
     
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  7. flht99b

    flht99b Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I am old enough to have actually driven these cars (T Top) as well as standard coupes when they were new. The difference was incredible. The hardtop cars were flexy flyers, much like many cars of that era. But the T Top cars felt like they had several hinges in the structure. A jack anywhere would bind the doors. Finished an 81 T Top mild resto mod around this time in 2019. I told the owner the only way I'd do the car was with metal sub frame mounts and subframe connector's. My personal 71 Z28 has the same and is stiffer, I can still feel the 81 T Top car flex at times. It is amazing the amount of torsional rigidity lost when the roof is mostly ill fitting glass.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2020
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  8. ULTM8Z

    ULTM8Z Veteran Member

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    Hmmmm... after ~25 years I'd think I would have developed cracks by now?

     
  9. tom3

    tom3 Veteran Member

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    Are your connectors welded in? Did you modify the floor any? Been thinking about this myself lately, do have the poly body mounts.

    Also, I put new rubber in first, didn't like the way the car felt with those. I suspect the old hard bushings were probably about equal to the poly?
     
  10. ULTM8Z

    ULTM8Z Veteran Member

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    Mine are the old south side machine SFC's. Basically just a box tube structure. Welded to the front and rear subframes.

    I don't think they make these anymore... i got them in the mid-90s.

    They hang down off the frames so no floor mods to install them.
     

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