Body Bushings Replacement: How to with tips

54baker

Member
Oct 29, 2014
89
Waverly, ia
Soak, soak, soak. I used a $32 inspection camera that wifi connects to your phone to make sure I was getting the right spot.
 

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wdstamper

Veteran Member
May 17, 2014
160
Florida
Just replaced my 1981's body bushings following sandiego74's instructions. The replacement went smoothly. Great thread! Thank you.

Walt
 

sandiego74

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 23, 2009
1,163
San Diego, CA
Just reuploaded the pictures, so they should be viewable again. Sorry for the little blackout with the photos. Hope this continues to help people out.
 

willem

Veteran Member
Nov 6, 2017
165
Thanks for re-uploading the images!

If I can add a little advice from my install last week is to use copper grease (anti-seize) on the new bolt threads

torque numbers for bolts are 122NM (90ft lbs) for mid and rear position, 94NM (70 ft lbs) for front

with bolted subframe connectors it kind of helps to keep things in place, I first changed mid and rear of one side, then moved to the front, then did the other side
no alignment issues whatsoever

ps: i imagine if someone has welded subframe connectors to their body at the middle, changing body mounts will prove to be more difficult..
 
Last edited:

garyt30

Veteran Member
Feb 5, 2017
126
Why will it be more difficult with the welded subframe connectors? Which my car has.

Also I thought I'd seen it before where it details the jack points but I can't seem to find it in this thread. Maybe it was a different thread.
 

Survivor Z

New Member
Jul 26, 2014
4
Why will it be more difficult with the welded subframe connectors? Which my car has.

Also I thought I'd seen it before where it details the jack points but I can't seem to find it in this thread. Maybe it was a different thread.
 

Survivor Z

New Member
Jul 26, 2014
4
Hello everyone,
I just bought a set of OER mounts and a set of Detroit Speed Engineering solid mounts to compare. Not sure which I should use??? Stainless steel bolts on their way too. Also, to follow up on the jack points, did you have two of the jack stands under the rear axle/differential and the other two under the subframe up front someplace? I'm lovin' all the info on this thread.
SurvivorZ
 

[email protected]

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Mar 27, 2016
4,721
NY
Hello everyone,
I just bought a set of OER mounts and a set of Detroit Speed Engineering solid mounts to compare. Not sure which I should use??? Stainless steel bolts on their way too. Also, to follow up on the jack points, did you have two of the jack stands under the rear axle/differential and the other two under the subframe up front someplace? I'm lovin' all the info on this thread.
SurvivorZ

I believe the way the OP did it was one side at a time, just being careful to keep the frame centered, and if you use SS bolts, be sure to put something on the threads, and what did you see as a difference between the two frame connectors? And if you mean that you are looking at rubber and solid , you should be happier with solid.
 

sandiego74

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 23, 2009
1,163
San Diego, CA
Hello everyone,
I just bought a set of OER mounts and a set of Detroit Speed Engineering solid mounts to compare. Not sure which I should use??? Stainless steel bolts on their way too. Also, to follow up on the jack points, did you have two of the jack stands under the rear axle/differential and the other two under the subframe up front someplace? I'm lovin' all the info on this thread.
SurvivorZ

I would definitely use the solid mounts, but it is completely up to you. If you don’t care to keep the car original and want to modernize it a bit, use the solid mounts.

As for jack points, I used the rear end and, if I remember correctly, the subframe. As I recall, I jacked the body off of the frame, but it’s been so long that I don’t remember correctly. If I didn’t say it in Themis thread, there is another good one on this forum that may explain it better.
 




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