Body Bushings Replacement: How to with tips

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by sandiego74, Oct 27, 2012.

  1. 54baker

    54baker Member

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    Soak, soak, soak. I used a $32 inspection camera that wifi connects to your phone to make sure I was getting the right spot.
     

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  2. wdstamper

    wdstamper Veteran Member

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    Just replaced my 1981's body bushings following sandiego74's instructions. The replacement went smoothly. Great thread! Thank you.

    Walt
     
  3. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    What make did you use?
     
  4. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Just reuploaded the pictures, so they should be viewable again. Sorry for the little blackout with the photos. Hope this continues to help people out.
     
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  5. willem

    willem Veteran Member

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    Thanks for re-uploading the images!

    If I can add a little advice from my install last week is to use copper grease (anti-seize) on the new bolt threads

    torque numbers for bolts are 122NM (90ft lbs) for mid and rear position, 94NM (70 ft lbs) for front

    with bolted subframe connectors it kind of helps to keep things in place, I first changed mid and rear of one side, then moved to the front, then did the other side
    no alignment issues whatsoever

    ps: i imagine if someone has welded subframe connectors to their body at the middle, changing body mounts will prove to be more difficult..
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
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  6. garyt30

    garyt30 Veteran Member

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    Why will it be more difficult with the welded subframe connectors? Which my car has.

    Also I thought I'd seen it before where it details the jack points but I can't seem to find it in this thread. Maybe it was a different thread.
     
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  7. Survivor Z

    Survivor Z New Member

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  8. Survivor Z

    Survivor Z New Member

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    Hello everyone,
    I just bought a set of OER mounts and a set of Detroit Speed Engineering solid mounts to compare. Not sure which I should use??? Stainless steel bolts on their way too. Also, to follow up on the jack points, did you have two of the jack stands under the rear axle/differential and the other two under the subframe up front someplace? I'm lovin' all the info on this thread.
    SurvivorZ
     
  9. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I believe the way the OP did it was one side at a time, just being careful to keep the frame centered, and if you use SS bolts, be sure to put something on the threads, and what did you see as a difference between the two frame connectors? And if you mean that you are looking at rubber and solid , you should be happier with solid.
     
  10. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I would definitely use the solid mounts, but it is completely up to you. If you don’t care to keep the car original and want to modernize it a bit, use the solid mounts.

    As for jack points, I used the rear end and, if I remember correctly, the subframe. As I recall, I jacked the body off of the frame, but it’s been so long that I don’t remember correctly. If I didn’t say it in Themis thread, there is another good one on this forum that may explain it better.
     
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