BODY PANEL REPLACEMANENT/WELDING

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by 80's AL, Jan 11, 2018.

  1. 80's AL

    80's AL Member

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    JUST A QUICK QUESTION.
    Is it absolutely necessary to have a frame table/jig to weld in trunk drop offs, quarters, and rear panels?
    trunk pan still in tact
    trunk lid in tact
    springs, rear end, and gas tank all still in tact
    I know it would make it easier, but does it HAVE to be on a table or rotisserie?

    if not, what would be some good tips make sure everything is straight?

    getting ready to go down a rabbit hole....

    Thanks

    80's AL
     
  2. steins70z28

    steins70z28 Veteran Member

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    A table/jig is really on needed in the most extreme removal of original stuctural panels like rocker panels, floor plans, etc. I have cut several 70-73 back farther than you stated you're at without any additional structures. Might want to read through multiple threads in the body restoration heading to get different thoughts, tips, tricks, lots of great info.
     
  3. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

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    Nope not at all, just make sure the body is well supported and fit up one panel at a time. Don't make the mistake of cutting away everything you're going to replace in one hit then trying to fit the new metal, only trim away what you need to to get things screwed/clamped in place before final scribing, trimming and prep for welding.

    I'd check the doors and trunk aligned first then work on the quarters, leave as much of the original trunk drop offs and a couple few small sections of body line in place to help with alignment. The unsupported rear corner of the wheel arch can flex around it bit so it's also a good idea to tack in a temporary brace before you start cutting to give you a good reference point to work to.

    Once you've got the quarters fitted with screws or clecos, take them off and move onto the trunk dropoffs. Your temporary brace will also help with these but expect to take the new quarters on and off at least half a dozen times.

    When your happy with them drill the lower flange for a couple more screws before welding them to the trunk floor and wheel tubs.

    Similar process again for the rear panel, using small sections of the original panel, the trunk lid, new quarters and new drop offs to get it properly aligned. (Tack welding the trunk in place with some large washers can also be useful)

    Fit, trim, prep and weld the rear panel in place before screwing the quarters back on one last time and also welding them in for good.

    Piece of cake :)
     
  4. 80's AL

    80's AL Member

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    Awesome!!

    Thanks for the input guys!!

    Looks like i may have to reconstruct the drip rail/weather strip area around the trunk....how much of a PIA is that gonna be?

    I was not sure if all this was something I want to try myself, but, The guys on this forum are very encouraging as for as the DIY goes...
     
  5. steins70z28

    steins70z28 Veteran Member

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    You can get a gutter repair set that replaces the 2 sides and the section closest to the back window, the tail panel has the lip at the back of the car.
    Its a bit tough depending on welding skills to to patch into the lip because its difficult to grind in the compound curves of the lip after welding. It's easier to replace a complete section because it over laps and only has to be spot welded. It is a bit hard to spot weld in a new piece because mig welding up against gravity will test your welding skills, but with a little practice it can be done. It will all be ground done so you don't have to be perfect.
     

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