Bondora’s 71 Camaro Build

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
I completely understand. If you want it to be done right, the old saying is you have to do it yourself. There are not many qualified people today to get these things done right today even if you throww thousands of dollars at them. That's also why I'm doing mine myself even with my limited experience. (This is my first ever restoration job on my 77).

I wish my upper was steel. Mine is Fiberglass and while its easy to repair, I would rather have steel.

As far as filler and sanding. Yeah I'm very bad at it. When I finished I expect it to look like I did it lol. Your middle photo looks spot on.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
As far as the rear valance under the bumper. I'll likely just repair all the way across so it looks uniform when its done. Mine has a small issue in the center bottom but it would make more sense to just replace a large section rather than cut out pinholes and weld in a patch. That's my take on it anyway.

I've attached a few photos for inspiration. One, where the car started (Youll know which one it is). The door jamb that was completely rusted out which I welded back in (in gray epoxy now). My passenger door which most people probably would have replaced. That repair was a 2" deep crease beginning right before the front door in the fender all the way back to the rear tire. All of that is gone now and it has taken a hell of a lot of patience and multi-tasking not to walk away. That repair on the crease visually doesn't look great but when you run your hand over it, its hard to even feel now. Not pictured (in 77 Coupe Resto Thread) is my rusted out trunk pan, tank, rear drivers window rail that was completely rotted out and other things.
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I enjoy your work, stay the course
 

bondora68

Veteran Member
Dec 14, 2014
622
Mobile, AL
As far as the rear valance under the bumper. I'll likely just repair all the way across so it looks uniform when its done. Mine has a small issue in the center bottom but it would make more sense to just replace a large section rather than cut out pinholes and weld in a patch. That's my take on it anyway.

I've attached a few photos for inspiration. One, where the car started (Youll know which one it is). The door jamb that was completely rusted out which I welded back in (in gray epoxy now). My passenger door which most people probably would have replaced. That repair was a 2" deep crease beginning right before the front door in the fender all the way back to the rear tire. All of that is gone now and it has taken a hell of a lot of patience and multi-tasking not to walk away. That repair on the crease visually doesn't look great but when you run your hand over it, its hard to even feel now. Not pictured (in 77 Coupe Resto Thread) is my rusted out trunk pan, tank, rear drivers window rail that was completely rotted out and other things. View attachment 127731
View attachment 127730
View attachment 127732

I enjoy your work, stay the course
Man, that’s a lot of work that I can relate to. It looks great!
 

Icepick23

New Member
Nov 17, 2021
20
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I had to work on each end of the header piece and even take a slice out of the right fender but it is looking better.
We have established that these reproduction parts need lots of work. Has anyone had to fix the lower RS valence? It does not line up with the header piece where the nose cone goes on.
I will have to send my hood hinges out for repair as they are really bad.
QUOTE]


Icepick23.
I had to Redo my RS Front end from OER. What a POS it was. Almost sold the OER stuff because it was such a huge PITA! Everywhere is looked, nothing was lining up. So I only took a few pictures, but It's better than nothing.
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Last edited:

Scott51

Veteran Member
Jan 2, 2012
792
New Zealand
Hate to say it but the bare metal panels need more clean-up work before epoxy.

Get them as clean as you can with Clean & Strip disks on a grinder, then use a twisted knot cup on any pits or tricky spots you couldn’t get to. After that do at least a couple of rounds with a phosphoric acid rust remover like ppg dx579 and use a wire brush to help things along on the stubborn spots.

Looks like there’s quite a lot of scale that will be hard to remove completely so use a light coat of Brunox or similar on any black spots that are left behind and once that’s cured you should be good to go.
 




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