Brake Rebuild Questions

[cannon11495]

So after 7 years of my 77 Camaro being in storage I finally got everything ready to do a test drive. On my test drive I realized I have almost zero brake pedal, it barely catches right at the end. So I take it home and start to try to bleed the brakes, long story short I couldn't get brake fluid out of any of the bleeder screws. I even took the bleeder screws all the way out on Passenger front a back (drivers side back the bleeder screw was broke off so I was unable to get a wrench on it) my drivers side front I cracked loose and got a dribble of brake fluid out of it. Does this seem like a Master Cylinder issue, or maybe the proportioning valve? The brake fluid looked really bad probably never been changed. My other question is I think since i am messing with the brakes I am just going to do a full rebuild of all my brakes, all my rotors and components are pretty damn rusty, since I am going to spend the money to buy all brand new brake parts is it worth it to convert the rears to disc brakes while I have everything ripped apart? Also what kits have you guys found or what brakes sets do you like to use? Thank you all in advance for your help! Sorry this was a long one!

 

[MChamp]

I had to rapidly stomp the heck out of the pedal in my '72 after it sat for 5yrs in the yard to get a decent pedal. I was only goiing down a slight hill to get it in the shop though. I'd never drive it on the road like that (Last time it was on the road was 1999)
I'd surely tear everything down and replace/rebuild anything that moves for peace of mind. As far as the conversion hopefully others can offer better guidance.
G'luck!

 

[rotinrob]

It is a 40 year old car rebuild the brakes. I am surprised they didn't hang up on the way home (once you got them to somewhat work). Chances are the master is filed with "mud" and can be rebuilt. Rebuild or replace calipers, cylinders, any valves and switches in the lines, If I remember correct a 79 has a combination valve. If changing to rear discs you will want to change to a master that can handle the rear brakes and an adjustable proportioning valve. Anyway that you decide to go with rebuilding the original or with the upgrade REPLACE ALL OF THE LINES and hoses. this isn't too terrible to do on a 2nd gen F body. Changing the fuel line really sucked on my 70 Monte. In fact it isn't a bad idea to change the lines on our everyday drivers if we let them get up in age (just went SS on my 2004 Duramax). No matter which way you go brakes that will stop the car are nice to have. I would rebuild and upgrade the stock brakes (slotted discs better pads and shoes maybe calipers) but when changing to discs I like using the Wilwood rears but any rear that uses a small drum for an e/parking brake is my preference. Since most of the braking is up front you also might want to consider going to a larger front disc if you are going to the expense and work of a 4 wheel disc conversion. There are a lot of choices in brakes for these cars.

rotin

 

[kenny77]

You don't have to replace the hard lines unless they are rusted, Take the hoses off and flush the lines. Then replace the hoses with new ones. New Calipers and Wheel Cyl. for the rear and a new Master cyl. It's not that bad of a job.

 

[budro6968]

If I get the chance I use a wet -vac to pull the schmootz out of the M/C. That way you can put some clean juice in for the time being. It's better than trying to push mud.

 

[Twisted_Metal]

For the price of a master cylinder ($50) at a local parts store… I would simply replace it.

 

[tom3]

The bad part in all this is getting the air out of the system. Spent all day today on my 70, vacuum and pressure bled all around. Bench bled the master first before install, but took it and the prop. valve assy off the booster today, leveled it, bled it again. Bled whole system again with the master leveled. One little air bubble and the pedal is mush. Might have to leave it set a couple weeks to heal up from this fiasco.

 

[Fbird]

converting to disc is "nice" but if its just a daily driver cruiser...don't bother. Rock auto is your newest friend...point click deliver everything...bench bleed your new master spend a day do it all then be done! BTW don't forget to WASH OFF all the old parts as water...straight water...neutralizes brake fluid ...so it doesn't eat up everything it touches.

 

[rotinrob]

Brake lines rot from the inside (just like our cars) I have had far too many brake lines, lines that had the appearance of no rust, fail while driving (plus if you don't take the clamps off and look under them how can you tell). The same property that allows us to wash brake fluid off with water is the same property that will rot the lines from the inside out, brake fluid will suck up water like a sponge, how do you think those rust pits get into the master cylinder. It is up to everyone that owns a car (not just a Camaro) to decide what their preventative maintenance measures will be. Most people change oil regularly, how many cars have ever had the brake fluid changed? For $175.00 for SS lines you will never have to worry about a line breaking due to corrosion. So if you are comfortable driving around with 40 some year old brake lines go right ahead (hey maybe the car spent its' life in Death Valley). I'm just suggesting that while the car will be down and the brakes will need to be bled anyway why not take the opportunity to provide for some piece of mind with new lines.

rotin

 

[budro6968]

I just had a brake line in my old 92 GMC van pop. It was one that I replaced 10+ years ago. My 74 C-20 I did a complete re- line a few years ago including new M/C and Booster combo wheel cyl and calipers hoses prop valve a complete redo. I even painted the whole deal with basecoat clearcoat metallic grey. The M/C is leaking now and wasted my paint job. Kills me that the old one was not bad and didn't leak. I just figured it was a good thing to do Just in case. My Wife's 2018 CRV had the fluild changed basically at about the three year mark. The computer puts up the code. The dealer did the work and said they need it done every 3 yrs or so to prevent one of the components from mucking up? IDK it's the wifes car so it gets it done at the dealer. Out of my hands and my worries. So yes to a fluid change periodically. especially if a vehicle sits a long time. At least running daily will help keep the water from being absorbed . Florida it's like parking on a wet sponge down here. Water will mess up your stuff.