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Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by cannon11495, Sep 20, 2021.
i would change all hoses. one or more may have collapsed.
For those adventurous enough to do the DIY route INLINE has the rock guard (the coil spring looking stuff), fittings and many of the valves and switches to get it done. Plus they have many of the hoses too. Also they have a bunch of other resto stuff. Like any of the resto suppliers some stuff is good some not so good (the lines are excellent) makes it convenient when ordering lines that you can order other stuff also.
And I second 8pack plus the damage to your car might be the least of your worries.
Just going through this on my 67 Firebird. At first I thought I was having issues due to the Cam and low vacuum. (slight contributor to the issues) added a quiet Vacuum Pump, A little better. Changed the front Rotors, Pads & Calipers, a little better. Finally pulled the Master Cylinder and it was barely working. So I decided instead of taking any chances and chasing my tail, I would replace everything. All new lines (In-Line Tube), Hoses, Master Cylinder, Distribution Block and I'm just waiting for the rear Calipers to come in (79 T/A Rear end). So, I guess my advice is as others have mentioned, go ahead and replace all the main items. All Hoses, Rear Wheel Cylinders, Master and distribution block so you know everything is good to go. Then if you have any issues, you only have the lines left (if you don't do them at the same time) and the whole system is new and should last many, many years.
Not sure if you said or not, but if the lines are good, just flush them. one thing I used to do in really nasty situations on brakes is to remove the master cylinder cover, suck out all the old fluid, place the cover back on top, wrap the master in a towel, go to each bleeder valve and run air through the bleeder back through the system. Only 20-30 psi is necessary, you dont need 100psi...lol. Sometimes that would clear up anything blocking the lines and allow you to bleed everything properly. if that doesnt do anything you need to start pulling things apart.
Yep, coincidently I am in the middle of the same adventure. I converted the fronts to stock disk brakes a long while back and the brakes never seemed right. Blamed the power assist and lack of vacuum but I am not convinced that is the issue. I am now replacing the wheel cylinders (new 20 years ago and the car has been stored since and they are now leaking). I replaced the master cylinder and am considering to overhaul the rest of the system as well. I removed the brake fluid from the back system. I am planning on replacing all of the lines so thanks for the Uline tip, much appreciated. Once I get the back system done I am going to move to the front. I Plan on replacing the hoses at the very least since I find that rubber disintegrates over time. I believe I need to replace the proportioning valves as well. I also have the stock valve under the drivers seat since the car was drum\drum brakes to start. Should the one under the drivers seat be replaced or removed?
I'm replacing everything, picked most of everything up and a few things are on order. Even got new wheel bearings since I'm going to have it apart anyway doesn't really need it but I would rather do it now rather then a couple years down the road. Ordered the prebent tubing through Inline Tube also so everything will be new!
I dont really trust the lines. They are pretty rusty I don't think any are rusted through yet but since I got it jacked up and tore apart I ordered some new stainless brake lines!
That spring protector helped with making some bends. My Dad showed me that when I was a little kid.