brakes - stopping ability

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Chuck71RS, Jan 12, 2022.

  1. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Factory brake system (front disc, rear drums) replaced except for the metal brake lines
    Does not pull left or right while driving
    Removing hands from steering wheel and pushing the brake pedal, the car remains straight.
    No brake noises while driving

    I don't know if the brakes are stopping the car as good as they can. Had been more than 30 years since the car was driven that I do not remember the stopping ability.

    Could there still be something preventing better stopping?
     
  2. 70Znut

    70Znut Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I've learned that pad compound has a noticeable effect on braking.
    Organic, Ceramic, semi-metallic, ferro-carbon(Hawk)

    If your just looking for better braking, a simple pad upgrade is worth looking into.
    Assuming your booster is good and no residual air left in the system.
     
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  3. rocket dawg

    rocket dawg Veteran Member

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    The front flex lines are probably expanding instead of pushing fluid to the calipers.
     
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  4. 70-camaro

    70-camaro Veteran Member

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    Replace all rubber brake lines first. 2 front, one rear.
     
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  5. fbody_mike

    fbody_mike Veteran Member

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    You said everything is new. Did you bed in the pads? I have some that took a long while to bed in. Some manufacturers even have suggested processes for it.
     
  6. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Hawk HPS pads work quite well, in my experience.

    I tried ceramic pads, once.
    They worked great and didn't dust up the wheels.
    The first couple of stops felt pretty weak but they improve once they warm up.

    However.... They also heat-checked my rotors during a couple of back-to-back hard stops in heavy traffic so I went with the Hawk HPS pads (HB103F.590) after replacing the rotors.

    Shop around... The prices on these pads vary considerably.

    Braking on these old cars does not compare to newer cars with much bigger rotors so your expectations may be unreachable if that's what you're looking for.
     
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  7. tom3

    tom3 Veteran Member

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    Did you replace/rebuild wheel cylinders and calipers? Does the 71 have the little retard valve between the master and prop. valve? Those calipers and cylinders can get iced up over time and weld the pistons in place and that little valve can pretty much disconnect the rear brakes if froze up. My 70 has super brakes after rebuild, jam on them hard and really stops without locking up the wheels on good pavement.
     
  8. sandlapper

    sandlapper Veteran Member

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    ^^^this^^^

    brake hoses age out, even when Outside looks good ... not uncommon when hoses collapse Internally and constricts flow.

    Get all three new OE-type replacement hoses and change them out. Both Wagner & Raybestos are reliable OE-type brake parts brands.
     
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  9. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    What is "bed in the pads"?

    What is "heat checked". I realize these old brakes do not stop the car as well as a new car but I am wondering if the brakes are stopping the car as good as it can. I don't have any way to judge and no clear memory

    I replaced the entire brake system except for the metal fluid lines.
    From your location description, mine does not have a retard valve but maybe it did a long time ago? I don't know what one looks like. Are you referring to the stem on the side of the prop valve?
     
  10. Gary S

    Gary S Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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    I suspect that by "retard valve", he means the separate metering valve used in 1970 and earlier. 1971 should have just the one piece proportioning valve.
     
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