Buy a Camaro Z28 1971

[tom3]

Looks to be a mid to late 1970s block by the small pad where the engine number would be. Would have iron heads and probably iron intake when built.

 

[sgauchet71]

Do you know if the engine that was in the car has 2 or 4 bolt mains? I ask that because even though the mid 70's - 80's Chevy 350's weren't strong from the factory, they wake up with a good cam, intake and header combination. You can always put better heads on it for more power before doing anything more radical to the inside. The 4 bolt mains provide better protection against spinning a rod bearing but aren't necessary unless you're planning to red-line the motor regularly. The LT-1 was practically a race engine that worked well tuned for the street, and I understand why you would want one for that car, but you might get more reliability and enjoyment by rebuilding and slightly modifying the motor you already have. Besides, in 1971 Chevrolet had already lowered the compression ratio of the LT-1 (and might have switched to a hydraulic cam from a roller rocker).

Love the car, though. Hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it.

I don't necessarily want to put back an LT-1 engine as originally in 1971. I just want to put an engine that corresponds more to the car from a historical point of view (with the right foundry numbers at least). Effectively afterwards I will improve the elements of the rebuilt engine and I will ask you for advice from this forum.

 

[sgauchet71]

Looks to be a mid to late 1970s block by the small pad where the engine number would be. Would have iron heads and probably iron intake when built.

I will replace the engine wear parts (conrod and camshaft bearings, piston rings, valve stem seals and all engine gaskets). I will take advantage that the engine and the gearbox are dismantled to redo the engine bay in the bodywork.
Then I put the power unit back together and enjoy the car. I will resume all the exterior bodywork later (put the right Camaro badge back on the front, add the rear bumper fangs, change all the door and trunk seals, put the chrome strips around the doors,...)
I will send you photos and videos of the progress of the project.

The 4 bolt motor is 3500€ and it takes over my old 500€ motor.
So I buy it 3000€ after I would like to put an aluminum intake pipe and see if the camshaft needs to be replaced for better performance.

 

[zsierra]

Missing rear Stabilizer/sway bar.

 

[tom3]

One thing to watch for with the new intake manifold when you are buying it - hood clearance with the carburetor and air cleaner. A performance High Rise intake can really cause problems since the Camaro hood has very little extra space for it. I can see you are really going in the right direction with the build. Keep us posted!

 

[sgauchet71]

Looks to be a mid to late 1970s block by the small pad where the engine number would be. Would have iron heads and probably iron intake when built.

I will replace the engine wear parts (conrod and camshaft bearings, piston rings, valve stem seals and all engine gaskets). I will take advantage that the engine and the gearbox are dismantled to redo the engine bay in the bodywork.
Then I put the power unit back together and enjoy the car. I will resume all the exterior bodywork later (put the right Camaro badge back on the front, add the rear bumper fangs, change all the door and trunk seals, put the chrome strips around the doors,...)

One thing to watch for with the new intake manifold when you are buying it - hood clearance with the carburetor and air cleaner. A performance High Rise intake can really cause problems since the Camaro hood has very little extra space for it. I can see you are really going in the right direction with the build. Keep us posted!

One thing to watch for with the new intake manifold when you are buying it - hood clearance with the carburetor and air cleaner. A performance High Rise intake can really cause problems since the Camaro hood has very little extra space for it. I can see you are really going in the right direction with the build. Keep us posted!

One thing to watch for with the new intake manifold when you are buying it - hood clearance with the carburetor and air cleaner. A performance High Rise intake can really cause problems since the Camaro hood has very little extra space for it. I can see you are really going in the right direction with the build. Keep us posted!

One thing to watch for with the new intake manifold when you are buying it - hood clearance with the carburetor and air cleaner. A performance High Rise intake can really cause problems since the Camaro hood has very little extra space for it. I can see you are really going in the right direction with the build. Keep us posted!

One thing to watch for with the new intake manifold when you are buying it - hood clearance with the carburetor and air cleaner. A performance High Rise intake can really cause problems since the Camaro hood has very little extra space for it. I can see you are really going in the right direction with the build. Keep us posted!

One thing to watch for with the new intake manifold when you are buying it - hood clearance with the carburetor and air cleaner. A performance High Rise intake can really cause problems since the Camaro hood has very little extra space for it. I can see you are really going in the right direction with the build. Keep us posted!

Do you have an intake manifold part number to advise I want to keep the engine cover induction free.

 

[Rosster]

In reference to the above post on hood clearance, utilizing a factory alum z28 intake, holley 4150 series carb, and a reproduction 70-72 z28 air cleaner should give you the clearance you meed and look more original.

 

[sgauchet71]

I found an aluminum intake manifold and a beef Holley carburettor in its packaging

 

[hubedobeedo]

I found an aluminum intake manifold and a beef Holley carburettor in its packaging View attachment 149610 View attachment 149611 View attachment 149612

the one in the middle has more options. research should have a part number. that would probably be the one i would use

 

[bullheimer]

i was wondering about the one piece spoiler and it was answered a couple pages back. my 72 SS had a 3 piece. where did all those intakes appear from? i would use the bottom one since it's the lowest one. either way as long as it fits under the hood. btw those Holley spread bores f'n ROCK!!! great selection. definitely change the cam. i think you'ld love a Comp 280 but that is a whole nother 20 page thread that depends largely on your heads. Wondering why bother going stock cast iron. i would get AFRs and grind the letters off and paint them if you're wanting it to look stock. you could do the same with the Edelbrock logo on the intake. With the Pound being worth about a Dollar, a Euro has to be about the same, right? not a bad price for that car, even in the US, even for a regular 'maro, let alone an SS or Z. Well that's mtc. see you on the Funway!