Camaro RS LS1 Build Thread

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by thesalboy, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Thanks all!

    ESR SR12s:

    2 @ 18"x9.5" / +22mm/6.11" - 12mm/.47" spacer = 5.64" effective backspace
    2 @ 18"x10.5" / +22mm/6.61"- 20mm/.79" spacer = 5.82" effective backspace
     
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  2. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    I never took a very close look at the fenders and doors, fearing the worst. I used a heat gun and a sharp wide chisel to start stripping. I thought the passenger side would be the nightmare given the rust I've found on the shell. Turns out driver side front fender was hiding dark secrets - big hits to the rear, forward part of the wheel opening, and front of the fender. There was lime yellow paint over all this bondo, so this "repair" was done a loooong time ago. Not sure how the rear inner structure didn't get mangled...? Wheel opening "metalwork" is among the worst I've ever seen - they actually moved the body line when they pulled it. I worked on this fender for most of an entire day. The front repair is close, but I spent most of my time on it, and the highs are still high and lows low. The wheel opening and rear damage are still just awful, despite that I made some positive strides. Thinking this side must be replaced.

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    Last edited: May 1, 2019
  3. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    HAA HA, when bodymen used filler to make fenders strait !!
     
  4. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Passenger side is heavily rusted at the rear bottom. They beat it in and mudded it with over 1/2" of bondo. I cut out the rust, and decided that the inner structure behind it had to go too. I have a patch panel for the exterior, but it's a bit of a waste - I don't need the body line, the "flanges" at the sides are inadequate so the originals have to be saved, and where the bottom "flange" is supposed to be, it's as smooth as a Ken doll and not long enough anyway, so the original "flange" has to be saved too. I think I can salvage the original flange, but there is rust in between the two layers that I won't be able to get to. The rest of the fender is straight and there's only surface rust on the backside. Still, considering replacing this side too.

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  5. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Clearly, the driver fender should have been replaced way back then, when OEM panels were still available. Really sad.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2019
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  6. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    And they were only $99.00 when I bought one from the GM dealership , back in the day
     
  7. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    On a cold January day in 1989, I lost the back end on patchy ice and wound up on the curb, flattening a speed limit sign with my driver fender. My auto body teacher pushed me to just get an aftermarket replacement. It fit so awful I yelled at him, and had him get me an OEM. I think it was $150 - double what the aftermarket one cost.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2019
  8. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I know the feeling, and I needed mine , because an invisible semi tanker, had stopped at a RR crossing, HAA HA, replaced the fender, and chained the front to an utility pole and backed up fast twice to pull the front back out , worked perfect .
     
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  9. mrfleet12

    mrfleet12 Veteran Member

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    Looking at what you have, it may be worth looking for some used oem fenders. I'm not a fan of repop parts. Kind of a crap shoot with them.
     
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  10. hubedobeedo

    hubedobeedo 3rd times a charm

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    oboy ,good times.my pass fend. was rough cut out bad sandblasted, epoxy and got her done save as much of the original lower skin as i could especially around bolt hole areas. driver fender whole nother story .sounds like alot of work but turned out nice .bought new aftermarket realized it was a pos spotweld drilled out all inner braces from new and original fender screwed original braces onto new "skin" after cleaning rust off of all parts and epoxy coating and then spent time installing and aligning before final spot weld(there was rust between all the braces and skins even on new). i did try to install the new onto car as is like i said pos. it takes time but i am very happy with were i am at currently.first pic are pass. side it was the good fender.lol
     

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