Camaro RS LS1 Build Thread

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by thesalboy, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    Messages:
    448
    Likes Received:
    179
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    Installed ABS-backed headliner I got off ebay (turns out it's made nearby, down in Long Beach, so I likely could have saved some serious cash had I researched it better) and Explorer dome light. Headliner mostly installed, I should say - still need to trim out for seat belts and sail panels. Sun visor holes were not perfect, so that took some work that fortunately doesn't show. And the felt was susceptible to finger "dents" but it's not too noticeable without the dome light on. Overall happy I went this route over the bow style. Between the dome light and under-dash courtesy lights, it will be plenty bright inside. You can just see my carpet (Auto Custom Carpets), which I'll be working on next. Mobile window tint installer comes tomorrow, so I'll pull that carpet out.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    dave@ztech likes this.
  2. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    Messages:
    448
    Likes Received:
    179
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    Update on my PSC steering box: IT'S JUNK!

    I finally test drove the car and the steering is TERRIBLE - sloppy, vague, no on-center, borderline dangerous. I called Lee Power Steering and was upset to learn that they don't work on (or sell) 600 series boxes anymore. I'd found threads on other boards trashing a 600 series box from another vendor, so I felt my only choice was to order a new box from Lee, which I went ahead and did. They build theirs from the stock 800 housing. I tossed my original box, but as it wasn't a quick-ratio, so that only cost me a $50 core charge. Hopefully my lines don't need to be re-done.

    Once I get the PSC box out, I will call PSC. The packing slip IDed my box as this box but it is a 4-bolt housing, so not really sure what I have. It is well out of warranty so I doubt I'll get my money back. That's why I went ahead and ordered from Lee.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2020
  3. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    4,354
    Likes Received:
    965
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Location:
    NY
    That sucks, Lee has , a good reputation so you should be good, I have the box that DSE sells sometimes, HAA HA , if I ever get it installed.
     
  4. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    4,354
    Likes Received:
    965
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Location:
    NY
    And I believe they are all 4 bolt , even the link you posted was 4 bolt
     
  5. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    Messages:
    448
    Likes Received:
    179
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    The guy at Lee referenced those. I'm gathering that they (including AGR) are all from the same ODM in China.

    Yeah it's just that the URL reflects "3-bolt"...
     
  6. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    Messages:
    448
    Likes Received:
    179
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    To be clear, my understanding is that you cannot get a 600 series steering box that isn't at best potentially crap, no matter where you get it. Whether you're paying serious money or getting it off RockAuto, you're getting the same quality. I do not think my swapping hoses had anything to do with my issues.

    And now for some more griping...

    On the test drive, despite that it was a short drive around a few blocks (we're talking 2-3 minutes of idling getting it out of the driveway and chatting with my neighbor, and 5 minutes of driving), coolant temps crept up quickly. LS1 being all aluminum it will warm up quickly, but I was really surprised to see temps that high that soon. I heard the fans come on and headed back home. By the time I got home, I noticed the stereo LCD was blank, and realized that it was off and non-responsive. VA fan also didn't work. Those are the only things on my accessories circuit (or so I thought), which is only fused with a 10A fuse because they are low draw. Checked fuse, but it was intact. So that meant that my entire accessory circuit went out.

    AAW gripe: Reviewed schematics and AAW for some reason put fan power on the accessory circuit (despite that they used an orange wire, which color in all other instances is used for circuits that are hot at all times). That's insane. Fortunately, I planned ahead when I customized my harness and put spare, fused battery and ignition circuits in the bulkhead connector. So all I had to do was swap the fan power from AAW's accessory circuit to my battery circuit at the bulkhead connector.

    ididit gripe: I am using their Push+ electronic keyless ignition. It has three 30A fuses in it, and one was blown - must be the one governing the accessory circuit - indeed, after replacing it, everything works now. As far as I can tell, those fuses limit THE ENTIRETY OF EACH CIRCUIT TO WHICH THEY CORRESPOND. The one on the battery power circuit - which feeds the Push+ - could theoretically limit BOTH accessory AND ignition circuits! Again, that's insane. Fortunately, again, I spread out my power sources, so I think I'm OK.

    Champion gripe: Engine has been in the car and plumbed with distilled water since mid-2019, with water pump heater hose in/out looped. When I went to plumb VA heater core a few months ago, the distilled water came out brown. I looked down into the radiator at the cap and saw...RUST on the bottom of the top side-tank. Block, heads, and water pump are all aluminum. I believe that the radiator is clogged with rust. When I filled it after VA install, I could see rust trickling out of the rad tubes. The rad was still very warm to the touch over an hour after the test drive. I don't think it's really all aluminum, and just don't trust it anymore. I bit the bullet this morning and bought a BeCool radiator (60231) - it costs alone more than Champion charged for the rad, shroud, Spal fans, overflow tank (useless), and rad cap cover (useless), so I guess the old saying is true... I think the Lee steering box will interfere with the Champion shroud (assuming it even fits the BeCool radiator), so I'll probably just mount the fans directly to the radiator and nix the shroud altogether. Having radiator out will ease steering box swap - hopefully timing of parts delivery works out.

    Car is out of commission for another three weeks or so...:( Will work on window alignment and door panel install in the meantime, as well as get things removed from the engine bay. Really sad to be taking steps backwards.
     
  7. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    4,354
    Likes Received:
    965
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Location:
    NY
    The LS in the 2018 gmc truck i drive warms fast to 200 and then stays there , so I think that they run hotter, and did you use a water wetter I believe that they have a corrosion inhibitors, sucks about the wiring, hope you keep the keys, just in case
     
  8. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    Messages:
    448
    Likes Received:
    179
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    I was hesitant to tackle installing my TMI matching rear seat upholstery until I started checking installer prices and wait time. I knew generally how to do it, but hadn't ever done it. In hindsight, it was pretty easy.

    I glued marine grade, weatherproof canvas to the bottom/back of the OER foams to keep the springs from digging into the foam (rather than messing with burlap). I brushed on contact adhesive - I don't like using the spray stuff, and even when I spent a lot of money to get the "good stuff" to make my package tray, it failed. I used these hog ring pliers, which worked well. The rear seats took some figuring out. In fact, I installed one backwards at first. But you can't tell in the finished product - all the mess is hidden!

    Rear seatback was pretty easy. Only after test fitting did I notice that the bottom of the passenger side was loose, which I fixed before final install, pulling it tighter.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Rear seat bottoms were a challenge because the OER foam is very thick. The below reflects my install steps, in order.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Auto Custom Carpet cut pile carpet is really nice, and went in pretty easily, though I'm, not 100% happy with the tunnel between the rear seat bottoms, which was wrinkled in shipping, and the carpet was cut a tad short, so I had to shove a pieve of scrap behind it to cover my shiny sound deadener. My custom seat mounts worked out well, though I lost a couple of the forward detents because the slider hits the head of the bolts that mount the seat to the floor. It would be an issue only for the shortest of drivers - there is still enough room to get to the rear mounting bolts with a ratchet, and plenty of room for getting in and out.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Also installed console, which fit really well. Morris seat belts installed too. Note that they do not have a floor retractor. That's a good thing - anything other than their flat steel floor mount would probably interfere with the seats. Indeed, check the clearance to the seat back adjuster...it takes strong fingers, or moving the seat forward to pull the lever.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    79ws6resto likes this.
  9. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    Messages:
    448
    Likes Received:
    179
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    I need to up the fan trigger temps when I get it tuned - low circuit is 180, so they will otherwise be on all the time. It's a higher compression motor, so it will run hotter. Do you run your steam tubes to the rad? Mine are plumbed into the back of the water pump, which Holley provided for. I don't get why it would matter as the rad port is right by the the high pressure outlet port.

    I'm running Pentofrost coolant to protect the aluminum. I've read that Water Wetter is virtually ineffective when mixed with coolant, and might lead to foaming. I run Water Wetter in straight distilled in my track car. Maybe when I re-do things I should just go with that. It's not like I risk freezing here in LA. Quite the opposite these days...

    I got the column CTO from ididit with the button installed - it cannot be retrofitted to keys. If I knew then what I know now - including that someone can restart the car without the fob for about 10 seconds after I shut it off - I'm not sure I'd have gone with it. Looks cool tho!

    On the wiring, I think I'm ok now. I've gone over all my circuits and the loads on each, and ignition and accessory circuits are only barely taxed. Most everything is now on battery, either directly or via the fusebox.
     
  10. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    Messages:
    448
    Likes Received:
    179
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    Stumbled across a pic of the lock cylinder in Fisher that included that clip - it is the OE clip for mounting the pawl to the cylinder. But the metal u-clip that you can see installed on the cylinder is perfectly reliable (and seems way more so) for that.

    [​IMG]
     
    dave@ztech likes this.

Share This Page