Camshaft decision between two cams

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by kpb, Feb 27, 2020.

  1. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    I agree with most who says go with the Lunati, I also like the 112 LSA for your combo. Unless something has changed, they do not make EDM's for Hyd FT lifters. You can get Crower and others that make "cam savers" that have a small flat machined in the side body. Make sure the lifter bores are straight,honed properly and have the correct clearances.

    But for the mild/wild hyd FT cam applications, such as yours, be it due to rules, or budget, a proper break in with the correct break in oil (Driven BR30) is critical at the start. Light springs or low ratio rockers are also a good idea if the spring pressures are on the higher side, or the ramps are aggressive.

    Change the filter, but leave the BR30 oil in for 200-350 miles, then switch to a good oil with the correct amount of ZDDP afterwards, like VR1 10W30 and you will be fine.
     
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  2. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    After you break the cam in, get that sh!t out ASAP, dump/change both oil and filter then refill with BR30 for a few hundred miles.
     
  3. 76z28

    76z28 Veteran Member

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    Don't let the people scare you about the flat tappet cams.. Most of the time they are afraid of them because they read it on here versus actually having one go flat.

    Now as for the cam, I would go with the old 327/350 horse cam. I believe it was like a 227/227 on a 112 or 114.
    That cam worked great in my heavy car.
     
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  4. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    FT cams go flat today, ask me how I know. I’ll tell you, I lost 2 solid lifter cams, one after 43,000 mi and the other after 8,700 mi. You make your choice. It’s fact and not BS or a wet dream.
     
  5. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Agree 100% COPO. If the engine was built and assembled with any lack of attention on cleanliness, or the over use of "moly" past and lube, then doing the dumping and filter change is the best bet right after cam break in.

    Personally, in all my builds/testing I leave it in for the complete cam AND ring break in session, change the filter, take apart the old filter and take an oil sample. If everything checks out, and 9.5 times out of ten it's perfect, then the testing dyno pulls begin, how many pulls is based on the build and R&D required/requested. I have done this many times, last week/month/year, and again in the next week. Then 200-300 miles, dump and change.

    If there is that much trash after break in, it's already been through the entire engine for the 20-30 minutes, cleanliness is godliness in engine building/assembly.
     
  6. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    They ALL don't go flat COPO. I understand you have had bad luck twice, you could of been unlucky in both times, it happens. If ALL FT cams go flat, and did not last very long, or long enough, no cam company or custom cam grinders would be selling any FT cams, be it Hyd. or Solid due to warranty claims and unhappy customers.

    But, the cam companies are still selling them, because there is still a decent demand and a place for them in the market. Yes, some are better than others, and the QC/materials in some places is not what it used to be. You see some lobes that are "chattered" and, not using a quality spring, even if it's the recommended springs, and not checking them for install pressure, over the nose,rate and setting coil bind heights can lead to cam lobe issues,in some cases, it's the spring causing the issues, not the lobe. A lot of "builders" or assemblers do not check this, just like they don't fill in spec sheets LOL.

    It's strange, 1 of the certain class of race cars I am very involved with are using FT hyd cam SBC 602 GM crates, basically a 380hp truck engine due to rules. These absolutely get the crap beat out them night after night during the racing season. Spring changes are done, use the good oil with ZDDP, some use whatever is on sale by the 18.9 litre pail. It's not a "street' application, but take in the time/hours of Pit warm ups, line ups after time trial, heats, consi, 30-50-100 lap features and waiting for the scales and not to mention pace and yellow laps, 2-3 nights a week for 25 weeks takes it's toll. Some have years on the same engine, Pistons let go and shatter in the end, but the Hyd cam lobes and lifters just hang on for the most part, it makes you wonder. Your foot to the floor banging off the chip at 6k all night does not help to make thing live.

    I agree, the Hyd roller is a better choice if it fits your needs and expectations and you have the budget. Just looking at the budget aspect, for comparison and not taking in anything else, looking at Summit as an example, with a Hyd. Crane Cam and lifter kit, the FT comes in at $251 USD, and $1,137 USD for the Roller. Up here with exchange and taxes, it's $380 and $1,722, 4.5 times the price.
     
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  7. CorkyE

    CorkyE Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    You make some very good points. It's a telling story when the end user has to be the quality control person though. IMHO
     
  8. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    And the 2nd solid cam I broke in I left the old springs in, then changed them after a few miles. Then changed them and broke them in the same way as I did the cam per Lake Speed Jr of Joe Gibbs oil now called Driven.
     
  9. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Well, some of the stuff I see does make you wonder. But, when your the "builder" and the last person to touch whatever your putting together, it's on you and only you.
     
  10. Plant Engineer

    Plant Engineer Veteran Member

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    Those are both really, really mild cams. I wouldn't be happy with either.
     

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