I have built my 383 three times over the past 20 years, (all with the same bottom end which is 9.8 compression, same trans, rear and car) I would recommend aluminum heads over vortex due to their ability to dissipate heat better and in large part flow better. The heat dissipation will allow for more timing and lower octane gas without detonation. Your cam choices will not generate enough hp in higher rpm range for head flow to matter much. A good set of 2.02 or 1.94 valve GM heads from the 60’s or 70’s will provide adequate flow, vortec’s, and aftermarket will flow even better. The heads I have used for the past five or so with great luck are in the below link. They come fully assembled and set up for FT or roller hydraulic cams, make that choice before you buy the heads so you don’t have to buy valve springs. https://skipwhiteperformance.com/ca...minum-heads-64cc-straight-plug-nkb-274_92658/ In 383 combo#1 I used the Holley system max II kit which had Holley heads that included a lunati cam very similar to your suggested cam. The lunati power was strong in the idle to 4,000 range and flattened out. The lunati cam lost a lobe at about 20,000 miles, but in fairness I was not using oil with proper zddp and pot ash content. This is how I learned that lesson and did 100’s of hours of research on oils. More on oil below... The second 383 set up used a comp cams XE 274 cam which is a bit bigger than you are suggesting. This cam will require non-stock valve springs that will be in the above suggested heads. It will also require a mild stall converter, mine is a 2,200 stall which was plenty for the cam.. Idle characteristics were medium lope but very streetable and still pulled about 12 lbs of vacuum. This configuration was my favorite in retrospect and would have left it alone but lost oil pressure at idle due to cam bearing failure. This cam pulled from idle all the way to 6,000 rpm’s, it sounded good at idled, lope was not obnoxious in traffic and pulled like freight train through the entire rpm range. The third and current 383 set up uses a Howard’s Hydraulic roller cam, comp roller lifters, and the above recommended heads set up for a roller cam. Much bigger lift & duration in this cam because a roller will allow such with reasonable idle characteristics. I am a little disappointed that the off idle is a little lazy compared to the EX 274, I strongly suspect due to the heavier roller valve train and additional duration. I don’t recall the exact cam specs but are roughly 235/240 duration at 50, and .600 lift. The retrofit roller valve train is also noisy, more like an LS engine. The engine flattens out a little above 5,000 rpm’s but generates noticeably more mid-range power. If you are concerned about the flat tappet cam failure pay the extra $100 to get it nitride treated (this may require ordering the cam from the manufacturer or through a live person at Summit or Jegs). Also a MUST use high content zddp and pot ash oils. The two that have the proper amount in independent lab testing are Valvoline VR1 and Royal Purple HPS. Not any Royal Purple, only Royal Purple High Performance Street both of which you will likely have to order from Summit or Jegs. Use a good mineral based break in oil, Driven, Comp Cams, Royal purple break-in and many others will due. I typically change the oil in the first 250 to 500 miles, this allows not only for cam/lifter to wear in but rings and bearings to seat as well. I am a fan of driving easy the first 1,000 miles, alternate rpms, no WOT, minimize highway runs to keeps rpms alternating. Old school I know but it works. my son has a 68 mustang with a 347 stroker and the XE 274 cam and it is awesome, but he has a manual and lighter car. I am a fan of the Comp XE series cams, they have excellent power bands, generate terrific power for their cam size and are reasonably priced. Especially compared to a roller even if you pay extra for nitride treatment on your flat tappet cam. I have another car 1980 Z28, totally stock 350 except a comp XE 256, and the power difference the cam only made when the engine was refreshed was unbelievable. Once the car warms up you can’t even hear it has a cam, very tame. In the final analysis I would recommend the nkb heads in the link above, and a nitride treated comp cams XE 256 or XE 268, dual plane intake and 650 or 750 cfm carb. 750 cfm would probably work better with vacuum secondaries in a heavy car with a tight stall converter. These will get you low to mid 300’s HP and generate good torque with mild to stock idle characteristics. The comp cams website has a desktop dyno called “cam quest” that will allow you to put in your engine specs, choose different cams and provide a power and torque curve. I have found it to be very reflective of reality. Best of luck!