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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Rosster, Oct 25, 2020.
Here’s a low mile from a members Norwood 70 Z28 he used to own.
Here’s an example of the quality of the work. This hada failed rivet and bolt in its place and every pivot point was loose. Now tight as new!
Parts back from the machine shop today. Block bored/honed w/ torque plate. The heads were magnafluxed, surfaced,
And full bronze guides were installed. Valves were shimmed to correct seat pressure. I used Manley SS racing valves, howards springs, retainers, and locks. The GM pink rods were reconditioned on the big end and new ARP bolts installed. Pistons are a speedpro copy of the original forged LT1 trw slugs. Finally, flywheel was surfaced and balanced as was rotating assembly.
Flywheel should also be balanced with the pressure plate and marked for assembly.
I didn’t think to add the pressure plate. I thought they already were? My machinist first zero balanced and marked the flywheel then balanced the rotating assy. He actually called me when he began the balance work and told me the flywheel was 8oz out of balance (he even recalibrated the machine to verify) so he was going to balance it separately first. I was speculating that maybe GM balanced the engine by removing the needed weight from the flywheel? Any thoughts?
awesome project! Are you doing a full restore or going for a really nice driver? How far down the rabbit hole are you going on the restore?
I’m building a close to stock as possible but not attempting a 100 point car. Having things like subframe bushing with the correct markings isn’t of interest to me but using the proper paint, inspection markings, decals does interest me (if it’s reasonably priced and available). Amazingly, The only things not original to the car are the starter, carb, and alternator. Even had the original clutch and pressure plate!
I built a HF modified blast cabinet, parts washer, and the equipment to do electroplating. I’m retired so this is my hobby full time until we get through this covid crap. In the end I plan to drive it and show it at a few local car shows.
Being so complete makes it basically a remove, rebuild, refinish, and reinstall project. I got the car for a good price (especially considering how original and how good of condition it was in from being stored inside most of the last 40 years) so I’ve only bought 1 big buck part (had the wrong carb but found a correct date coded one) so still way under my budget of $40k.
yea, i know someone else looking for that 4555 carb, they are hard to find.
I'm fully taking advantage of the this Covid era, by putting as much work into the car as possible. I love watching builds like yours, its fun to watch the progress!
Going to need some expensive gas to run that engine I'm thinking. Should be a real interesting experience with the near OE build for sure.
I remember now that when my crank went out, my builder asked for the pressure plate and flywheel too.