Citrus green 1970 z28 restoration thread

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Rosster, Oct 25, 2020.

  1. Rosster

    Rosster Veteran Member Gold Member

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    with the flywheel neutral balanced I guess I can send him that and the pressure plate and remove any imbalance from the pressure plate.
     
  2. Rosster

    Rosster Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Yeah did a bunch of discussions with guys that still have 11:1 stock motors. Most run 93 premium and octane booster. The dynamic compression ratio is actually pretty low and I’ve got a connection for 100 octane nearby that’s not too outrageously priced. It’s just a local cruise and car show build so not planning long range trips. A 55 gal drum will last me awhile
     
  3. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    ^That’s why I didn’t want to go any higher than 10.2:1. I use Shell Premium with 0% ethanol and can hit 6,000 rpm all day if need be. Back in the early 80’s when I bought the car and it still had 11:1 cr, I drove to the airport with a 5 gal container and mixed fuel. It would still ping so bad that I had to lower the timing to 2-4* and then the car had no balls.
     
  4. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    im running 10.5 on my big block on pump gas, but running aluminum heads. running 28 degrees of timing. total different beast than iron closed chambered heads though.
     
  5. Rosster

    Rosster Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Yeah, I’m 5 mins from our small regional airport but in commifornia they likely won't sell it to you in a can or pump it into a car.
     
  6. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    California doesn't actually restrict you buying it, just who's allow to sell it (like any other state reasonably would) would be no different then going somewhere to get marine diesel. They won't let you put it directly in the car first instead of a can is but that would be more up to who's selling you the fuel.ou should also look up what communists are because you seem very confused about the word
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2021
  7. Rosster

    Rosster Veteran Member Gold Member

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    It is illegal to fuel an on road vehicle with road exempt fuel in california (where we both live). I haven’t broached the subject with the fuel distributor at my local airport but it may be possible to get cans or drums filled. I have a connection for CARB legal 100 octane not much farther away so plan to just go this way.
     
  8. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    Lets both be honest with each other
    they're not going to know what fuel you're burning unless it's in your tank while you're getting smogged (which you're not doing in your 1970 anyways) You can still buy the fuel and put it in the can.
     
  9. Rosster

    Rosster Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I’m being honest with you. I was a senior environmental compliance assurance manager for the Largest O&G company in calif so I’m well versed in CARB, BAAQMD, and other state and federal regulations. Many rules specifically include a component whereby the person(s) or companies they represent aid (knowingly or not) aid in the commission of the violation they are liable for as well. I might be able to get gas in a can or drum if I tell them it’s for an aircraft but they may require me to provide tail number to do so and fuel sales are required to logged by the FAA ( I learned that working on an avgas incident years ago where it was contaminated by #2 diesel). I Can’t remember if av gas is dyed (it likely is) so easy to tell. I can buy CARB approved 100 octane sonoco 6 miles from me for $9 a gallon and they can pump to fill the tank so that’s the way I’m going.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2021
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  10. Rosster

    Rosster Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Been trying to decide how to finish the intake and valve covers. The recommended way is to brass brush burnish the valve covers then dip them in ppg dx501 to reskin them. This is a chromic acid solution the brightens the metal and seals the surface to prevent staining from oil or grease. There is also a fairly new (to the US) process called vapor blasting which is essentially a water slurry of glass beads which brings finishes back to an as cast brightness. There’s a local guy here that I used and had all parts done very reasonably. Here’s some before and after. The valvecovers before picture is after burnishing with a brass brush.

    I’m planning to do the reskinning in the next few days so if anyone has any suggestions on best way to apply. I bought enough to make 1/2 gal of solution so soaking the manifold likely wont work. (Update): I was able to apply with a spray bottle which evenly coated all surfaces and saved a ton of chemical vs. dipping.

    E077E04A-7F69-4120-A7BE-EA6592B575B4.jpeg AE2B9772-C828-4B5A-9F97-1E2079FB61F1.jpeg FBD339A5-D819-4A2B-B854-D39107F46DBF.jpeg FDFF1795-6AEB-4BA4-913B-1B277611207D.jpeg 9970A666-34A8-484A-9D36-607C5A742150.jpeg BEB9159A-0726-4CCB-A8CD-17914546DA0C.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2021

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