Colour sanding and paint correction advice

jester1

Veteran Member
Jan 12, 2005
2,409
Use tape on the body lines it will help with cutting through. Depending on the peel of the clear will dictate what grit to start with.

For pads 3m white, black. You can go another stage with blue. Word of advice try and not use 3m cutting compound as it has fillers and you will chase you tail. Meaning once you get the shine back and use a panel cleaner the fillers are removed and the shine you think you got is gone. I have just switched to Meguires M105 but cant attest to is as I have not gotten around to using it.
The paint depth gauge is useless because its not going to tell you the thickness of the clear. If you used a HS clear and put two good coats on you will have no trouble. If you used a MS clear its not as thick but just don't go crazy. The polisher does have a tendency to burn through, don't let the pad dry out and don't press hard let the weight do the work. Once you get going you'll see its finesse and not rocket science.
I always use slow activator but you can run into trouble if you hose it on heavy.
You could also use a microfiber cutting pad with a heavy compoud and see what happens without sanding. In addition you could source 1500 trizac 6" disc and put it on a da sander with an interface pad. Crappy Tire has the 3000 grit but not sure if they have 1500. If you can get it off without sanding and leveling the peel it would be a win as you wouldnt have to sand/polish the whole car unless you want to.
 

70-SS/RS-L78

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Mar 19, 2003
2,683
Phila area
with the final grit I would try keeping the direction of the sanding in one direction instead of scattering it and with the Rotation of the wheel (pad) cut across the sanding grain. Also... With the rotation of the pad ALWAYS "Cut Away" from all edges and you will be OK, If you have a brain fart and cut INTO the edge with the rotation you can kiss that edge goodbuy and it happens fast!!! Dont be so surprised if you cut into edge and you removed the paint right down to the metal..:eek:


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CasperCasper

Veteran Member
Aug 11, 2015
1,074
70-Ss could you explain what you mean by cutting in and cutting out ?

I am thinking I'm going to go with this 3m system, and skip the 5000 grit step. I will mask all the edges during the process

http://3mcollision.com/media/pdf/AAD_Steel_SOPs_UPDATE_July_20_HiRes_44.pdf

I am getting very nervous about this which means I HAVE TO learn how to do it and perfect my technique. Thank you all very much for the advice ! I see the quality you put in your work and value your opinion.
 

jester1

Veteran Member
Jan 12, 2005
2,409
If your machine is rotating clock wise you want the edge to the right so as its rotating is spinning off the edge. If the edge is on the left as the pad rotates clock wise into it kiss that edge good by and it happens so fast!
Tape is your best friend. Tip try sanding and polishing the lower quarter first as its not in direct view just in case something happens. Crapy has 3000 in a hand sheet same as the orbital one. The hand sheet last longer and you can get pretty detatiled with it. 1500, 2000 then 3000. BTW the 1500 is three times the price of everything else how ironic eh.
 

KEVS79

Veteran Member
Mar 3, 2008
2,465
GLADSTONE, MO
My personal opinion here is to do the wet sanding by hand only. I was just too afraid of the DA getting away from me and burning through. As long as you soak the paper over night and keep the area wet it really doesnt take that much to do it by hand. Of course the polishing part use a rotary buffer.
 

KEVS79

Veteran Member
Mar 3, 2008
2,465
GLADSTONE, MO
I got my paper from Amazon. Used the Meguiars Unigrit paper and worked great. The polish I used was the Liquid Ice System. I got it from Eastwood on Ebay. Eastwoods Ebay sight had better prices that Eastwood did. Used the Harbor Freight Rotary buffer.
 
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