Corvette regulator - fuel filter puch on fittings

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by 1934chevycoupe, Aug 11, 2021.

  1. 1934chevycoupe

    1934chevycoupe Veteran Member

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    i agree that the screw on metal collars are better than the plastic retainer fittings. ordered from Summit the other day.
     
  2. Zee

    Zee Veteran Member

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  3. 73Z L92

    73Z L92 Veteran Member

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    Not saying the Speedway FFR is bad but the down side is that if fails you can't go down to NAPA and get another. I use the the -6 adapter that just plugs into the outlet. Then female -6 adapters for the inlet and return. Try to run the -6 fuel lines so there is no way the lines can pop off. Wix FFR. On the fuel inlet I use the -6 adapter that has screw on retainer. Once you install the fitting/line onto the fuel rail there is a kind of u-shaped nut that screws into the -6 fitting.
     
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  4. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    Great point!
     
  5. 73Z L92

    73Z L92 Veteran Member

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    Just another note in regards to fuel systems. I've used Walbro in tank and external fuel pumps. Never had one fail. But having said that I do have a internal 255 as a spare in my travel repair kit. It's about the only LS part I can't walk into NAPA and get today.
     
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  6. Zee

    Zee Veteran Member

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    However, if you are planning for it to fail anyway, it would make sense just to pick up a spare from Speedway. The only cost would be the minimal difference in price. That way you don't even have to hope you can find one in stock somewhere and mess with all of the adapter fittings again.
     
  7. 73Z L92

    73Z L92 Veteran Member

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    I haven't bought a Wix lately but I think they are around $50-$60 bucks. Speedway is $91.00. I haven't priced out the -6 adapters lately but I suppose the Wix and adapters will be close to the Speedway price.
     
  8. 1934chevycoupe

    1934chevycoupe Veteran Member

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    $40 at Summit for the 3 fittings
     
  9. streak

    streak Member

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    Some run a larger micron prefilter if you have an out of tank pump and then the smaller micron filter to safeguard the injectors, depends a bit on overall setup. As far as that article? He leaves a lot of info out because he wants to sell his stuff. It's also way too complicated a topic to get into in a single article. What he's discussing is only an issue when you're pushing stock type parts beyond their limits into higher HP applications. Of course if you leave certain stock parts in place and then try to max out something then you will eventually find a weak point. But I've seen way more Aeromotive stuff fail than OEM GM. Newer vehicles can get around these issues because they have a fuel module and can tune for a higher commanded line pressure. But you better have upgraded your pump/injectors if needed.And in high performance applications you shouldn't be using this OEM part anyways because you're exceeding its design parameters.

    But in your case, are you boosted? Are you 200hp over what the regulator was designed for? What is the injector duty cycle? Every build is different and a fuel system matters but for a largely stock truck type ls swap placement doesn't matter. The injectors aren't pulling enough fuel to cause the condition he's discussing unless you've undersized the fuel line or rail. Bottom line is plan engine and fueling as a system, hopefully with whoever is doing the tuning, so you don't buy individual parts hoping it turns out ok and wasting money.
     
  10. 1934chevycoupe

    1934chevycoupe Veteran Member

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    i'm running the GMPP LS3 w/ the hot cam, stock as it came from GM. nothing else added.
     

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