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Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by arick793, Mar 12, 2017.
Did you put the seam sealer between the frame and the edge you are hammering over?
This is a great tip. Can save you a ton of headaches.
We use glue. Usually Fusor 108B. It has the corrosion protection of epoxy, and has glass beads in it so you don't squeeze all the glue out when you hammer it over. Use an acid brush to spread adhesive to cover all bare metal. Then install door and you can "spoon" the skin around to get your gaps. If time allows, set the fender back on to see where your gaps are, since that's usually the hardest gap to get.
I have skinned a lot of doors on our cars and I use a tool called the skin zipper. It fits on the end of an air hammer and has 2 sides one folds the lip over half way and other side does it the rest of the way. Nice tool.
I use a door skin hammer, and a rubber coated heel dolly. I also use panel bonding adhesive around the flange rather than tack welding, and seam sealer between the skin and reinforcement
Debated on starting a new thread but figured I'd add on. This is my first time reskinning.
I have 2 stripped shells heading to the blaster soon. I will shoot them with epoxy when they get back. I have a pair of skins which I will shoot with epoxy after scuffing the inside. I already bought a skin zipper and can equip myself with whatever else. But I have a couple of questions for those in the know.
Of course I plan to tack the top of the door to the frame like the factory at the very end. Is it best to use an adhesive around the rest of the perimeter in place of the spot welds? Fusor is mentioned but has a 40 min working time, is that enough for a novice? Is a dollop of seam sealer on the crash beam good enough to replicate the factory bond in that area?
I have heard that I should mount the shell on the car and install the skin that way to get body gaps aligned best. Will the skin want to fold at the bend where it is already stamped or do I need to worry about it wrapping tighter around the frame flange? Before its fully formed will the skin have some movement on the frame to jockey it as needed?
Rich, that’s the tool my body guy used. It was a snap! Also, he used panel bond adhesive, and used a punch to replicate the factory spotwelds. I was blown away at how perfect it came out. My car came with an extra set of doors, that were body worked, and fit to the body. I just couldn’t get past the fact that they weren’t the original doors. I found NOS skins and bribed my body guy to install them. Soooo glad I did it!
Did those NOS skins have a number stamping anywhere inside the panel?
Not that I saw.