Drag racing with super T-10

[anesthes]

My '79 Z has been in storage for 10+ years. Was thinking of pulling it out and putting it back together.

Right now, thinking 5.3 single turbo, probably around 600hp - mid 11 second street/strip car.

I had a T10 in it a decade ago. I still have a T10 .


Should I put the T10 in the car, should I buy a TKO, or just put an automatic in it ?


-- Joe

 

[mallard]

I've never known anyone who lost a race solely by reason of a blown shift who had an auto trans. Just my 2 cents.

 

[anesthes]

I've never known anyone who lost a race solely by reason of a blown shift who had an auto trans. Just my 2 cents.

True. a 5.3 / 4L60E combo could go pretty good, especially with computer controlled shifts.

-- Joe

 

[Patstuff28]

I've never known anyone who lost a race solely by reason of a blown shift who had an auto trans. Just my 2 cents.

Back in my high school days, the owner of a gas station in town sold his high performance Mopar. The new owner couldn’t wait to show off how fast it was. He raced a guy from the stoplights as soon as he took possession and promptly blew it up. He was so excited that he forgot that it was a reverse valve body transmission. He shifted from 3rd to 2nd to 1st! To this day he is known for that moment in time.

 

[besserspat]

While I love driving around with super T10s and Muncies, I dont think for drag racing a Turbo LS car it would be the best transmission. especially if it has an aluminum case, mid plate and a first gear other than 2.43 or 2.64...

I would run an automatic, and if drag racing IS the main use for the car Id go TH400 to keep things simple and bulletproof.

I am currently building a Super t-10 , 2.64 first with a HD 904 iron case and the rare steel mid plate, just in order to survive behind a mostly street 468 LS7 bottom end with a [email protected] +/- .600 lift flat tappet cam and Brodix RR 270s. Nothing exotic and nothing extremely powerful either... and I am still going to use my head when Ill shift it.

Id drag race a manual NHRA super stock , a Turbo LS Id prefer Auto.

Just my 2cents

Peter

 

[anesthes]

While I love driving around with super T10s and Muncies, I dont think for drag racing a Turbo LS car it would be the best transmission. especially if it has an aluminum case, mid plate and a first gear other than 2.43 or 2.64...

I would run an automatic, and if drag racing IS the main use for the car Id go TH400 to keep things simple and bulletproof.

I am currently building a Super t-10 , 2.64 first with a HD 904 iron case and the rare steel mid plate, just in order to survive behind a mostly street 468 LS7 bottom end with a [email protected] +/- .600 lift flat tappet cam and Brodix RR 270s. Nothing exotic and nothing extremely powerful either... and I am still going to use my head when Ill shift it.

Id drag race a manual NHRA super stock , a Turbo LS Id prefer Auto.

Just my 2cents

Peter

So. I thought about the auto route. I think if I did that I'd probably do a 4l60e or 4l80e and have the holley control the shifting. Just stick it and drive and keep it straight.

I had a megashifter in my last blown track car and I hated shifting it with the ratchet.

-- Joe

 

[COPO]

Get a TKX, it’s smaller. If you go automatic then what do you do with your hand once it’s in D? Put it down your pants? Drive a stick or you’ll be bored.

 

[besserspat]

Get a TKX, it’s smaller. If you go automatic then what do you do with your hand once it’s in D? Put it down your pants? Drive a stick or you’ll be bored.

To get a TKX he will sure know where to put his hand now....Right in his pocket....

 

[Ihada70Z28B4]

I love my 2:43 1st ST10, but behind a turbo motor you're better off with an automatic. Especially if it's equipped with a transbrake.

 

[czizza]

I love all the Automatic lovers chiming in.

I have a SBC 409, 550 horse run low 12 due to grip but should be able to get into the 11 once I figure that out. I raced for years with my Super T10 until I broke the rear and that broke the T10. I went to buy replacement parts and found all I can only buy CAST; I use to buy nodular iron which forged and are stronger then cast. I rebuilt it as cast and keep it as a spare + the drive shaft just in case.

I found a TKO500 online for 1K freshened it up and have now raced for 7 years ago and have no issues. Nothing beats banging gears and hitting curves with gears, I love the thrill of downshifting into a turn and coming of the apex with torque behind you to upshift.

Here is a slomo of my run with a little pull of the front wheels: