Driver Door closing

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Chuck71RS, May 26, 2020.

  1. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Driver door, with only the door seals installed (new from Metro) and just a bit of slam the door latches over the striker. All four controls attached to the lock assembly work (interior door release, vertical lock rod, door key exterior door handle). But the door surface extends 15/64" beyond the qtr.

    If the door is slammed hard the door closes flush with the qtr but the vertical lock rod does not work

    Prior to the rebuild, the door closed normally. The doors were not removed during this rebuild. Before the paint-body work, both new Metro seal ends had a lot of surface grated off

    Suggestions please what to do about the driver door

    Passenger door, with both new Metro seals installed (window and door), door closes flush with the qtr with just a just a bit of slam. The four controls work normally.
     
  2. Gavin Humes

    Gavin Humes New Member

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    i had the same problem and had to add a couple plate shims to my door hinges. on a finished car i wouldnt suggest touching the hinges. is there any possibilty of removing/sanding down any seal material to make it close correctly. i think i might of had to do that too if i remember correctly.
     
  3. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Interesting idea. I encountered problems attaching stainless steel trim due to spray build up.. The door situation, with only the door seal on and a 15/64" surface height difference, there must be something more then build up alone.
     
  4. Gavin Humes

    Gavin Humes New Member

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    spray build up is possible, but i was meaning to sand down/grate the actual rubber seal if the new seal is just too thick. how were the condition of the originals if you still have them?( i know it sucks to use old parts but might be the easiest route if the condition is ok)
    other things i can think of are


    - does the glass have any play within the door ( i assume the door only holds open with the glass up) i believe the glass is suppose to be a little loose within the door to to have it push against the seal but not put too much tension on the glass.


    - maybe try adjusting the striker position

    sounds like your new gasket is just too beefy
     
  5. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The originals were beyond use.

    Before the doors were gutted as part the body-paint work, I used a 180 degree wood shaping tool to grate the rubber surface removing quite a pile. Installed both and the door closed with some slam and adjusted the glass obtaining a really good alignment.

    Moved the striker inward as far as it would go and no difference in closing

    Thinking I might have to cut off the ends and grate the heck out them

    Yet the passenger door closes pretty close to perfect. Just don't get it.
     
  6. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I think your right. By process of elimination,
    ---hinges and positioning are good for when the door is slammed hard the surface is flush, gaps are good, and good horizontal body line alignment at fender and qtr
    ---all four door controls work except when slammed closed hard
    ---Striker is not bent for shaft rolls uniformly on a flat table, with head off the edge

    This leaves only one other component, the door and window seals, especially the ends. Get the wood shaping tool out again and grate another another mound of seal surface
     
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