Dry sump set up for my LS3 swap

Discussion in 'High Performance Modifications' started by Gasoholic, Apr 10, 2020.

  1. Gasoholic

    Gasoholic Veteran Member

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    Considering options for my oil pan on my 78 ls3 swap.
    I have to get either an f body muscle car type pan or I'm thinking about maybe setting it up with a dry sump system.
    I found this kit from a company called Aviaid.
    https://aviaid.com/pdfs/1205-115_ls1-ls6.pdf
    Specifically the kit I'm looking at is the LS "B" series. It uses a scavenge pump that mounts to bosses in the block where an A/C compressor would normally mount. Rt side lower. I'm not running A/C. Deleted all that crap to make room for headers. The kit is pretty much bolt on and wouldn't require any mods to the motor.
    The parts cost in the range of 2800, but I'm going to have to get some of these parts anyways. Such as a new balancer, oil pan, gaskets etc... So in the long run up grading to the dry sump would really only be about 1500 more than what I am going to have to spend anyway.
    Thinking maybe give me more room for mounting the motor and pick up some extra HP in the process.

    Just wondering if anyone here has some thoughts on it or maybe has done it???
    Waste of time and money or good investment?
     
  2. SS Performance

    SS Performance Veteran Member

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    It depends on how you plan to use your car. If it's a cruiser I would say it might not be worth the expense. If you plan on doing some kind of racing either drag, autoX or track days, it might be worth it.

    If you are going with a true dry sump (remote tank) you can pick up some horse power.

    You just need to remember that you are adding maintenance items, like the external pump.

    Good luck let us know what you decide and how it works out.

    Craig
     
  3. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The B choice looks like you are still using the OEM pump to supply, I would think choice C , would be the choice , so you get more features and no OEM pump , not quite sure I understand all that they are saying, however, I would want a stand alone system , that sucks and pumps the oil,
     
  4. Gasoholic

    Gasoholic Veteran Member

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    Yeah the "B" system uses OE oil pump. Looks like the pan is plumbed so it picks oil directly from the bottom of the storage tank. A slight leak in the pick up line would be bad.
    I'm not sure how that "C" system works. Looks similar to the "B" but 3 stage pump 2 scavenging and one pressure. The pressure must plumb directly into the port on the side of the frt timing cover? Guess I'd have to look over the destructions.
    I looked at prices and "C" I believe was in the 3500 price range depending on options.
     
  5. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I am with you, I would need to look at the instructions, and speak to someone , about the advantages and disadvantages of each system, then decide which is the best choice,
     
  6. 71RS/SS396

    71RS/SS396 Veteran Member

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    That B series is backwards thinking to me, if you're going to go through the trouble and expense of a dry sump, do it all the way. The achilles heel of the LS is the stock oil pump configuration, it runs at crankshaft speed which makes it prone to cavitation above 6,200 rpm. I would use a system that incorporates both pressure and scavenge externally.
    You will only gain power if the scavenge stages can maintain vacuum in the crankcase at high rpm, some of these pumps will maintain vacuum at low rpm but once you rev the engine up and the windage/crankcase pressure goes up they can't maintain vacuum. Even if you can't keep the crankcase in vacuum it's still a better system than the stock wet sump or the dryet system the LS7 uses.
    I have a Dailey 5 stage on mine, I started out with a 3 stage but when I ran it on the dyno the pump couldn't maintain vacuum so I switched to the 5 stage, it picked up 20 hp with no other changes, I can maintain 15" of vacuum on the crankcase now. In the spirit of full disclosure I'm running a 4.125 stroke crank so the windage is worse than what most folks would have.
     
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  7. Gasoholic

    Gasoholic Veteran Member

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    Thankyou that gives me a much better understanding.
     
  8. 71RS/SS396

    71RS/SS396 Veteran Member

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    Other things to consider, you're going to have additional costs over and above what's listed in that kit.

    -The plumbing costs can get quite high especially if you need -16 lines and fittings like I did, some of the -16 fittings can exceed $100 each.

    -There's no bolt-in tank solutions for 2nd gens so you're either fabricating a tank to fit the car or you're modifying the car to fit the tank.

    -You have to use a remote oil filter.

    Plan on around $5K all said and done if you're using all new parts.
     
  9. Gasoholic

    Gasoholic Veteran Member

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    Thats a bit more than I have to spend right now. But something to think about down the road.

    Thanks for the input.
     
  10. Lowend

    Lowend Administrator. .a car, a man, a maraca. Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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