Dry sump set up for my LS3 swap

It depends on how you plan to use your car. If it's a cruiser I would say it might not be worth the expense. If you plan on doing some kind of racing either drag, autoX or track days, it might be worth it.

If you are going with a true dry sump (remote tank) you can pick up some horse power.

You just need to remember that you are adding maintenance items, like the external pump.

Good luck let us know what you decide and how it works out.

Craig

 

The B choice looks like you are still using the OEM pump to supply, I would think choice C , would be the choice , so you get more features and no OEM pump , not quite sure I understand all that they are saying, however, I would want a stand alone system , that sucks and pumps the oil,

 

I am with you, I would need to look at the instructions, and speak to someone , about the advantages and disadvantages of each system, then decide which is the best choice,

 

That B series is backwards thinking to me, if you're going to go through the trouble and expense of a dry sump, do it all the way. The achilles heel of the LS is the stock oil pump configuration, it runs at crankshaft speed which makes it prone to cavitation above 6,200 rpm. I would use a system that incorporates both pressure and scavenge externally.
You will only gain power if the scavenge stages can maintain vacuum in the crankcase at high rpm, some of these pumps will maintain vacuum at low rpm but once you rev the engine up and the windage/crankcase pressure goes up they can't maintain vacuum. Even if you can't keep the crankcase in vacuum it's still a better system than the stock wet sump or the dryet system the LS7 uses.
I have a Dailey 5 stage on mine, I started out with a 3 stage but when I ran it on the dyno the pump couldn't maintain vacuum so I switched to the 5 stage, it picked up 20 hp with no other changes, I can maintain 15" of vacuum on the crankcase now. In the spirit of full disclosure I'm running a 4.125 stroke crank so the windage is worse than what most folks would have.

 

Other things to consider, you're going to have additional costs over and above what's listed in that kit.

-The plumbing costs can get quite high especially if you need -16 lines and fittings like I did, some of the -16 fittings can exceed $100 each.

-There's no bolt-in tank solutions for 2nd gens so you're either fabricating a tank to fit the car or you're modifying the car to fit the tank.

-You have to use a remote oil filter.

Plan on around $5K all said and done if you're using all new parts.