Electrical issue

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Dennis Wilkie, Jun 15, 2021.

  1. Dennis Wilkie

    Dennis Wilkie Veteran Member

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    I played around with it a little bit last night, and this is what it sounds like at the moment. But i've got to catch a flight in a couple of hours, wo this is how it's gonna be until I get back. I'm sure i'll spend all my time thinking about it while i'm gone, lol. https://youtube.com/shorts/2lfL8dce1qk?feature=share
     
  2. Dennis Wilkie

    Dennis Wilkie Veteran Member

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    My flight got cancelled, so i've spent all of that time under the hood as usual. This is a little clip from earlier, but i've been messing with that carburetor all day since then, and I think i've got it pretty close to where it needs to be. The electric choke was staying wide open all the time, so I leaned it out a little bit. It was factory set 2 notches from the end of the rich side, and now it's 1 notch from center on the same side. Right now it's at 32° advanced with the fuel pressure is at 5.5 psi, and 700 rpm at idle. Now i've been trying to figure out why it's not going into overdrive. I think i'm going to have to go back in and rewire the torque converter solenoid. 1-3 shifts great, but when it's time to drop the rpm's around 45-50 mph it just never does. https://youtube.com/shorts/XTU6uen5CJ4?feature=share
     
  3. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    At what rpm is your timing 32 degrees? Would be nice to know what your intial timing is with the vac advance disconnected.
     
  4. Dennis Wilkie

    Dennis Wilkie Veteran Member

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    That's at idle...so 700-ish. Today I noticed it smells a little on the rich side. I haven't done any of this on an HEI distributor with vacuum advance and carburetor before, so i'm still figuring it out. But I already like it way better than all of the electronic timing. But i've kind of moved my focus toward trying to figure out why it's not going into overdrive...but i'll save that for another thread. Here's what it sounded like when I started it up earlier today. I found another exhaust that i'm gonna put on, but i'm going to keep the dual Magnaflows. So i'll finally be able to get rid of all the extra noise. https://youtube.com/shorts/xZykk3Jyqzs?feature=share
     
  5. Dennis Wilkie

    Dennis Wilkie Veteran Member

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    Here's what it reads with the vacuum advance disconnected. It didn't change when I put the hose back on the carb, but i'm pretty sure it shouldn't on the ported side. I just adjusted the idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge on the manifold side, and got it pretty smooth and steady at 16 psi. I also went ahead and adjusted the electric carb to the middle notch, because of the rich smell earlier today.
     

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  6. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Glad it is running better, that is progress. 35 degrees at idle is too much. Once your mechanical advance engages, you are going to be well over 40 degrees, and that is without vacuum advance! Unless your timing marks are off somehow.
    With your vacuum advance disconnected, can you rev the engine to see how high your timing goes?
    I see you are using a dial back timing light, are you setting the light at 35 and seeing the balancer mark lined up at 0? Are you using a fully marked balancer?
     
  7. Dennis Wilkie

    Dennis Wilkie Veteran Member

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    Yeah, when I go up on the light, it brings the mark to 0. I haven't even touched the adjustable vacuum advance yet. I planned on trying to get the exhaust manifold flanges sealed up at some point tomorrow, but not before I try tuning it a little more. I haven't checked the timing curve yet, but that'll get done sooner than later. All this tuning and driving is KILLING me at the pump, lol.
     
  8. Best Of Both

    Best Of Both New Member

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    Initial timing with vacuum advance disconnected should be roughly 8 to 10 degrees. You may need a little more or a little less less and this is why it’s called tuning. Full advance should be 32 to 34 degrees at 2500 to 3000 rpms with vacuum advance hooked up. Electronic spark timing controls the timing by advancing the timing based on engine load. It uses the knock sensor to detect the slightest amount of spark knock to make its adjustments.
     
  9. Dennis Wilkie

    Dennis Wilkie Veteran Member

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    I don't have any electric timing control or a knock sensor
     
  10. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Yes. Except (and maybe a typo) full advance reading should be taken with vac advance disconnected.
     

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