EXPERT HELP NEEDED! mother of all starting problems

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by HollywoodGNX, Jan 2, 2003.

  1. HollywoodGNX

    HollywoodGNX Member

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    So is it safe to assume that all major brands of mini starters use metal internals or just certain brands? I'd like to know this before buying one...

    Hollywood
     
  2. tgw323

    tgw323 Veteran Member

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    I had problems with no cranking on mine .It would start by jumping terminals down on the starter. I solved it by running a jumper wire across the mass of wires that T at the back of the engine. Apparently a bad connection where they all come together.
     
  3. rscamaro73

    rscamaro73 Administrator Staff Member

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    I gotta point towards getting a mini starter as well....I did that for the 454 with headers, and have mucho clearance for oil filter AND starter (starter can be spun around until you have clearance).....I got an unused Summit starter off eaby as well, decent enough deal....car has no problems starting except for the dead beat battery I have [​IMG]

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    " ALL Camaros are equal, but some Camaros are more equal than others "

    73 LT 454
    mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
     
  4. HollywoodGNX

    HollywoodGNX Member

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    **Further Update**

    Well I finally broke down and ordered a CSI mini starter. I did install a heat shield on the last stock reman starter but two times it wouldn't start hot for me. This is my 4 starter this year, so I've known it's the starter. I didn't mind so much buying my first one and then have since just been exchanging them for new ones. I was hoping that this one would hold up longer.

    By the end of this week my starting problems will be solved forever.
    -push button start hot wired to the remote solenoid (fed off an extra IGN fuse on the block) that only gets power when key is in "ON" position
    -new battery cables with a solid ground
    -deep cell battery

    -After the mini starter gets here I'll slap that bad boy on and won't HAVE to carry around jumper cables anymore. I also plan on using my old cables to ground the battery to the frame and body as well.

    Side note...

    After I put on the push button start I was driving around for a bit. The roads were kind of icy so I was easily reving quite high. Due to the lack of a rev limiter and the ice I was pushing the motor harder than regular and mangled a push rod. Turns out the push rods that came with the car when I got it weren't the hardened kind. A few others were worn from the guide plates. It was quite a site when I pulled the valve cover off. I took some pictures, will have them up tomorrow.

    [This message has been edited by HollywoodGNX (edited January 07, 2003).]
     
  5. rscamaro73

    rscamaro73 Administrator Staff Member

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    Glad 350 pushrods are plentiful and cheap.
    Go install a new set [​IMG]

    Try so Di-Electric grease where the ground wire for the battery connects to the frame, it'll help hold a good connection, and keep moisture out. Cheap ($1) for a small tube. It lasts forever. I had one last 5 or 6 years, and I did plugs & wires quite a few times (not just my cars).

    Still don't 'myself' see the need for a deep cycle type of battery. A regular automotive/truck battery with a hi 'CCA' - cold cranking amps in the 700-1000 rating would work fine. And keep the jumper cables. Never know when you'll need to jump one of us......like me [​IMG]

    ------------------
    " ALL Camaros are equal, but some Camaros are more equal than others "

    73 LT 454
    mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
     
  6. Powerglide350

    Powerglide350 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I just started using Di-Electirc grease myself and I must say that's some good sh!t
     
  7. HollywoodGNX

    HollywoodGNX Member

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    That definitely sounds like a good idea
    I have one amp for the stereo now and plan on adding two more. This will help keep the battery from dying out when I play some music w/o the car running.
    I certainly know what it's like being on the receiving end so of course I'll keep them in, just don't HAVE to anymore...

    [This message has been edited by HollywoodGNX (edited January 08, 2003).]
     
  8. rscamaro73

    rscamaro73 Administrator Staff Member

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    I dunno about any electronics stuff, but Batman and others can help you out in that direction. You also might want to look at a higher output alternator to keep the battery charged AND provide enough juice when its all running. Oh, a capacitor helps on those thumps so you're not straining the system [​IMG]
     
  9. skinner_ss

    skinner_ss New Member

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    the answer lies within a

    in between the starter and the ignition is a little fuseable link check that just bypass and check it again
     
  10. skinner_ss

    skinner_ss New Member

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    a cap will help

    adding two additional amps will kill the battery even quicker a cap is the way to go i have one in 80 z28 and can listen to radio full blast with two amps and electronic crossover for hours and still start my car fine
     

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