Finally getting into bodywork

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,729
Pearland, texas
I have been patiently waiting(not really) for a friend of mine to get me access to a dustless blasting machine. Its finally going to happen, but in spurts.

Saturday I plan to take the doors, hood, trunk lid, front upper and lower valences. Then Ill have to reschedule to get the car over to do rest of car.

but in the mean time I have a ton of questions.
Heres what im using:
The blasting rig will be using 810 waterbased Flash Rust inhibitor
It will be using black beauty glass.

I have bought a quart of SPI black Epoxy, and SPI epoxy agent and a gallon of their 700-1 waterborne wax and grease remover.



1. should I blast the inside of the doors, inside of the trunk lid, and underside of the hood down to metal or just scuff them and hit them with the epoxy primer?
2. My plan is to blast everything there and bring everything back to garage to spray. SPI recommends:
Since 810 Flash Rust inhibitor is water based, clean a 2’ x 2’ area at a time with our 700-1 and immediately dry with another clean towel.
Sand the surface to be primed really quick (the whole surface quick) with 80 grit on a DA.
Clean with 700-1 as you did before and immediately dry with another clean towel. Wait at least 30 minutes, then apply 2 or 3 coats of epoxy primer.

Any insight would be great.

I dont recall seeing people mess with the insides of things like the doors and hood
 

Twisted_Metal

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 26, 2004
31,661
Bloomington, MN
Personally.... I would never blast the insides of the doors, hood and trunk with blasting media.

It might do a good job but you will NEVER get all the media out of those places.
(But it WILL find it's way out when you start spraying epoxy and paint.)

If you're insistent upon blasting those areas you would be better off to use dry ice blasting to avoid that issue.

A thorough cleaning, degreasing and scuffing (and degreasing again) should suffice for surface prep on the underside of the trunk lid and hood.
 

Scott51

Veteran Member
Jan 2, 2012
789
New Zealand
I wouldn’t do inside the doors but the other parts really depend on their current condition and what your plans are (respray/tidy up, resto or show)

Interested in why you’re going with dustless blasting? My understanding is the only advantage over conventional dry media blasting is that it doesn’t make as big a mess of the site.
 

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Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Mar 27, 2016
4,727
NY
It is also cooler on the panels, so it is really hard to heat warp anything, I used it and really liked the results .
 

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Mar 27, 2016
4,727
NY
The place by me came to the body shop, had the rig on a trailer, and they charged by the hour, the car all the panels , doors, fenders, hood and trunk , took about 7 1/2 hours and cost $675.00 , the car was just sitting on a tarp, so after, just rolled up the tarp and clean up was done, really easy and it came out great.
 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,729
Pearland, texas
Not going to be a show car, I just want to do it right.

My thoughts initially were to blast the outside, and scuff underside. Can I spray Epoxy primer over the paint that exists on the inside, or should i just spray the high build primer beofre paint? Or just scuff, clean and paint(insides)?
 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,729
Pearland, texas
The place by me came to the body shop, had the rig on a trailer, and they charged by the hour, the car all the panels , doors, fenders, hood and trunk , took about 7 1/2 hours and cost $675.00 , the car was just sitting on a tarp, so after, just rolled up the tarp and clean up was done, really easy and it came out great.
Thats about what im looking at. Ive read a lot about it, the biggest issue is getting the media out of the crevices. Air dry a dn air blow everythng before sanding, cleaning, and priming.
 

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Lifetime Gold Member
Mar 27, 2016
4,727
NY
You can also just continue to rinse everything down with the conditioned water they use to get out the sand , there was not real issues, , just remember to clean well underneath with air to get it out of the cracks and crevices , however, that shouldn't affect the paint, you just do not want spots that will stay wet longer , I had no problems
 

lilbuzzy

New Member
Feb 18, 2016
1
alabama
Thats about what im looking at. Ive read a lot about it, the biggest issue is getting the media out of the crevices. Air dry a dn air blow everythng before sanding, cleaning, and priming.[/QUOTE
I have experience with dustless blasting and would like to offer some advice. Only dry blast the interior surfaces....doors, hood, car etc. The slurry blasting works great on large flat open surfaces. Cracks and crevices are a beast to blast and an even bigger beast to clean up. Be prepared for a mess either way.
 




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