Flat tappet guys, what oil to keep it alive?

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by severum17, Sep 4, 2019.

  1. severum17

    severum17 New Member

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2001
    Location:
    South of Dallas TX
    77 Z with 350 LM1 Now that all the oils have changed, what is best without having to use additives?
    Would like to stay with conventional oil, but will consider synthetic.
    What can I pour in and not have to worry about?
     
  2. jeff swisher

    jeff swisher Veteran Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Likes Received:
    607
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2018
    Location:
    Yukon Oklahoma
    Joe Gibbs Driven for my stuff. I use their Break In oil in all my engines and I have followed up with the Hot rod oil they have and my LS friend uses their LS oil.
    Valvoline VR1 racing silver bottle that is actually great stuff with additives ok for daily driving.
    I Have it in my 57 chevy with 280H flat tappet.

    I am actually very picky on lifters today.
    Only Crower Cam Saver flat tappet hydraulics for me when I use a hydraulic flat tappet and Howards gets my money for the Solid flat tappets with the EDM hole in them.

    The reason I chose the Howards is many years ago I stuck a 355" together for a buddy.
    Ported HO 305 heads with 1.94-1.60 valves 130-135 seat pressure and 345 open pressure the cam was solid flat tappet my buddy ground for me [email protected] .050 on a 106LSA with .571" lift with 1.6 rocker ratio.
    4" stainless exhaust through 4" Borla straight through stainless mufflers.
    Hurricane intake and 800 double pumper.
    The thing sounded like a dragster and people flocked to it.

    I caught him at a cruise in and he had it idling when I went by. I came back around 40 minutes later and the truck was in the same spot still idling.

    He was drunk and just left it idling because it sounded SOOOO good.
    It never hurt the cam.
    It had been together for 2 weeks of him beating on it every day and the idle thing.
    He had never removed the break in oil in that time.
    No wear.

    Good enough for me.
    If you were going to wipe a cam it would have happened then
     
    G72Zed likes this.
  3. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

    Messages:
    2,347
    Likes Received:
    1,023
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2015
    Location:
    Canada
    A5376A86-8354-4AFD-AA1D-C1975D3C41F8.jpeg I used Shell T3 Rotella 15-40 without issues back several years ago, not now.

    Now use VR1 Valvoline only, 10-30, and available in 20-50 and straight grades 30 through 60. The Driven brand is also very good with grade options, but more expensive. Both are conventional.
     
    gpm6367, 79RedZ and jeff swisher like this.
  4. BonzoHansen

    BonzoHansen Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    20,558
    Likes Received:
    1,705
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2005
    Location:
    Scott from Hamilton, NJ
    Joe Gibbs driven or Amsoil Z Rod.


    But i think for a fully broken-in/seasoned motor the zinc deal is over blown. the flat tappet motor i took out a few years ago warr running just fine on Mobil 1. Im probably going to put it in my 67 one of these days
     
    G72Zed likes this.
  5. roeville

    roeville Veteran Member

    Messages:
    1,276
    Likes Received:
    116
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2000
    Location:
    SF East Bay CA
    I use Valvoline VR1 10W/30 and have never had a problem. It’s readily available from my local Napa store.
     
    gpm6367 and G72Zed like this.
  6. cadillac_al

    cadillac_al Veteran Member

    Messages:
    930
    Likes Received:
    113
    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2015
    Location:
    Maine
    With stock valve springs I wouldn't even sweat it. Any old oil should be fine but you can't beat Mobil 1 at walmart for around $25 a jug. I haven't lost a cam since the 80's when everybody else was losing them.
     
    G72Zed likes this.
  7. rchydzik

    rchydzik Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    890
    Likes Received:
    34
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 1999
    Location:
    Colbert, WA USA
    If your climate is warm enough (or summer only), I use Delo 30. It is about 1200 ppm ZDDP. I have a mild cam (Comp 268H), which probably helps.
     
  8. jeff swisher

    jeff swisher Veteran Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Likes Received:
    607
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2018
    Location:
    Yukon Oklahoma
    I Have checked old SBC stock spring pressures on the seat I have seen 55-80 psi many are under 200 open pressure. 256 spring rate some are in the 350 rate area.
    I have ran 400 rate springs but do not use those any more.
    Believe it or not that low 55 seat and 200 open is enough pressure to easily rev an old 268H to 6000 rpm.
    More aggressive cams will float valves at 5500 with those pressures.
    Seen it.
    The seat pressure is not the issue with the wear part it is the open pressures and not having some sort of additive to counter metal to metal contact under high loads.

    I have went to Ovate Beehive springs with 313 spring rate with either 110 seat or 130 seat depending on how aggressive the cam or how heavy the valve is. I have used them in flat tappet and roller builds and 7000+ rpm is easy to get with them with many different grinds of cams. Open pressures do not get into scary territory.
     
  9. haroldpo6

    haroldpo6 Veteran Member

    Messages:
    325
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    May 9, 2015
    Location:
    PC Fl
    VR1 10-30 with a little zinc added
     
    gpm6367 likes this.
  10. biker

    biker Veteran Member

    Messages:
    2,875
    Likes Received:
    1,170
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2014
    Location:
    Canada
    VR1 10w30 conventional here too. It has more zinc in it. I have a roller cam, but the fuel pump pushrod is not a roller. Very good oil.
     
    gpm6367 likes this.

Share This Page