Help from body gurus!

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by TX79Z28, Jul 2, 2014.

  1. TX79Z28

    TX79Z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I need to fix what I believe is a long high spot right in front of the driver side wheel opening. I didn't realize it was this bad, but after the last round of blocking on the shell, I realized I can't let it go. What is the best method to fix this? This is my first restoration, so I need all the help I can get

    THIS IS ME POINTING RIGHT AT THE SPOT:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  2. 76 camaro car 1

    76 camaro car 1 Veteran Member

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    The first thing I would do is grind all the filler out and see whats underneath. Its pretty obvious there is a good bit of filler in there. Probably needs to be pulled correctly.
     
  3. dale68z

    dale68z Veteran Member

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    Agree with above.

    The wheel arch is tough to keep the width of the flat area even throught the curve.

    I started out marking the width with a pencil.

    I then use blue tape as my guide. Put it on the flat area, sand the body till I hit the tape.
     
  4. 1981gMachine

    1981gMachine Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    It looks like you sanded a groove into the area. I honestly can't describe to you how to sand it out as well as showing you. I'd have to see what sanding blocks you had at your disposal and go from there.

    What I see in the picture I'd attack with a sanding block and 80-180. Maybe 80 to get the initial cut and switch to 180 quickly after to keep the scratches down. You want to keep the block flat to the fender and follow the curve of the arch. Not on the arch/lip edge. Slow, controlled motion. Do a few passes and stop. You want the edge of the block meeting up next to the raised lip. You'll be able to see spots sanded and untouched spots. You want to continue til you block the highs down to the lows.

    The key is taking your time and following the curve of the body line with the block flat. If paper wraps around one side of the block. Put it towards the lip, however don't apply pressure pushing into the body line. This will cut a groove into it.

    Bodywork is much easier to show in person then try to explain. I could show you in a min what to do.

    More then likely you'll end up with a little spot glaze and spot priming the area. I don't see need to grind and pull the area from those pictures.
     
  5. 1981gMachine

    1981gMachine Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Agree with some of this. Don't be afraid to mark your body line with pencil. Once the line is marked, you can block away. If you are controlled you can leave it at that. You can also do like mentioned above and run tape along the line as well. Then you follow the edge of the tape. Keep notice as you can sand a groove right along the tape doing so. It's sometimes best to tape up one side of the line, block, then remove and tape the other side of the line and block.

    All in all, a picture for slightly further away would help and one on about a 45deg angle so we can see the inside edge of the fender would help further.
     
  6. KEVS79

    KEVS79 Veteran Member

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    Wouldn't a round "block" work in this situation. Sanding at an angle and spinning the block while doing it? I am no expert, but that seemed to work for me in that area.
     
  7. 1981gMachine

    1981gMachine Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    If we are talking above the quarter and fender then yes. However the radius isn't as large once you make your way to the bottom of the arch.

    [​IMG]

    The red is what I see has high and the green is low. The black line is the sanding path I feel you should follow with the block. Placing the edge of the block on that line. This will knock the red down to the green. You will more then likely break through into whatever is below. Judging by the surface, it looks to be primed with rattle can guide coat. So you will break through that into filler below.
     
  8. stevenp3762

    stevenp3762 BANNED

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    Get a piece of straight soft 4" long heater hose, wrap the paper around it and sand it out like kevs79 said....
     
  9. TX79Z28

    TX79Z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Ok, this might help. I probably didn't give enough information. When I stripped it down to metal, it was obvious it was hit on that spot, and I fixed it the best I knew how (not much obviously). Part of me was in denial, and thought that enough filler and 2K primer would fix it. Well, it got better, but not good enough. These are pictures of the bare metal, maybe it will help?

    BTW, it's not rattle can primer, it's SPI 2K over SPI epoxy, it's just a grainy ipad picture

    I will take better pictures when I go home for lunch today



    [​IMG]


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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. 77nomad

    77nomad Veteran Member

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    OOOOuch! I take it you stripped the car with a high speed wheel? A lot of edge cut! Looks like the metal needs to be bumped down a bit. I know I probably couldnt fix it. So I'll let the pros talk you down.
     

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