Hinky Sway Bar - '70RS

[73Z L92]

Just a thought on welding. If you have a local muffler shop that you trust. The bracket and the frame rail are fairly thin metal. Clean the frame rail up down to bare metal and same for the anti sway bracket. The muffler shop guys weld thin metal everyday of the week.
What's up with the header wrap?
Looks like the exhaust pipe will bottom out on the axle tube long before the rubber will hit the axle tube.

 

[PNW.Paul]

Just a thought on welding. If you have a local muffler shop that you trust. The bracket and the frame rail are fairly thin metal. Clean the frame rail up down to bare metal and same for the anti sway bracket. The muffler shop guys weld thin metal everyday of the week.
What's up with the header wrap?
Looks like the exhaust pipe will bottom out on the axle tube long before the rubber will hit the axle tube.

LOL. I don't know...previous owner wrapped everything . Good tips on the welding. Thank you.

 

[hubedobeedo]

I loosely recall ADDCO having a rear swaybar setup like that in the 80's. It wasn't well-liked

i have a addco set up i was going to use i mocked up it fit but were it mounts to frame rails had u bolts to hold upper bushing bracket . i didn't like the idea and knowing i was going to need room were it ended up i went with Hotchkiss sport bar

 

[OFLHLG]

View attachment 138289

View attachment 138290

This install looks very suspicious to me.
Is it as bad as it seems?
Advice on what to do?

New to me..'70RS. Has upgraded CPP front suspension and what it supposed to me a stroked 350....so, I guess what I am saying is that it is supposed to be "hi-performance". I wonder if this rear sway bar will just fall off under hard use???

Thanks for any insights this group can provide.

Well obviously that’s not the F41 suspension….

 

[PNW.Paul]

i have a addco set up i was going to use i mocked up it fit but were it mounts to frame rails had u bolts to hold upper bushing bracket . i didn't like the idea and knowing i was going to need room were it ended up i went with Hotchkiss sport bar

Thanks for the images. Much better setup than mine!

 

[angelo]

Before you drop money into fixing, if you plan on dropping money into the car to add modern features, you may want to look at a 4-link. A 4-link will ditch the leaf springs and that changes how the sway bar is connected plus there are other benefits too - with handling, exhaust routing, brake upgrade options, etc.. Ignore this comment if you want to keep your car stock.

 

[Lowend]

^^ This, is bad advice.
A parallel bar 4-link is pretty much the worst suspension you can run in a 2nd gen. There are inherent geometry issues that come into play because of packaging issues with the LCA's. The LCA needs to be ~42 inches long in this application to avoid binding. This would require cutting out the floor plan and putting the mount up near the driver's seat.
There are other options (Torque arm, 3-link, Truck Arm, Lotus Link) but frankly, in most applications, they are a waste of money on a streetcar.

 

[PNW.Paul]

Before you drop money into fixing, if you plan on dropping money into the car to add modern features, you may want to look at a 4-link. A 4-link will ditch the leaf springs and that changes how the sway bar is connected plus there are other benefits too - with handling, exhaust routing, brake upgrade options, etc.. Ignore this comment if you want to keep your car stock.

Totally agree. Thanks for the suggestion. It's already somewhat modified from stock. I'll have to own it awhile before I go to that type of additional investment. I'd sure like to some day.

 

[PNW.Paul]

^^ This, is bad advice.
A parallel bar 4-link is pretty much the worst suspension you can run in a 2nd gen. There are inherent geometry issues that come into play because of packaging issues with the LCA's. The LCA needs to be ~42 inches long in this application to avoid binding. This would require cutting out the floor plan and putting the mount up near the driver's seat.
There are other options (Torque arm, 3-link, Truck Arm, Lotus Link) but frankly, in most applications, they are a waste of money on a streetcar.

Thanks Lowend! The different experiences and opinions are very helpful to me. This is my first Camaro and I am soaking it all in

 

[russelljones48]

I had exactly the same problem. My solution was to take some standard U channel that fit snugly over the "frame". Next step was to cut 2 roughly 3-4" sections of the U channel and drill 3/8" holes through the U channel that corresponded to the original holes in the frame. Then I welded nuts to the inside of the U channel for the mounting bolts. Next I opened up the holes in the frame just enough to accommodate the nuts for a 3/8" bolts and welded the U channel to the frame. This will lower the upper mounting points a by the thickness of the U channel but that shouldn't matter. Fabrication time was just a couple of hours and my sway bar has been in the car for about 3 years. Ignore the fancy connecting links - I had to have those made because my links weren't bent correctly. But the upper mount should work for you.