Hinky Sway Bar - '70RS


Feb 8, 2022
I had exactly the same problem. My solution was to take some standard U channel that fit snugly over the "frame". Next step was to cut 2 roughly 3-4" sections of the U channel and drill 3/8" holes through the U channel that corresponded to the original holes in the frame. Then I welded nuts to the inside of the U channel for the mounting bolts. Next I opened up the holes in the frame just enough to accommodate the nuts for a 3/8" bolts and welded the U channel to the frame. This will lower the upper mounting points a by the thickness of the U channel but that shouldn't matter. Fabrication time was just a couple of hours and my sway bar has been in the car for about 3 years. Ignore the fancy connecting links - I had to have those made because my links weren't bent correctly. But the upper mount should work for you.
Thanks for the images. That gives me some more ideas on how to improve my setup.


Veteran Member
Feb 12, 2009
Delray Beach Florida
I believe you can buy brackets like these from PTFB eliminating the fabrication work. Like a lot of things it's usually cheaper to buy the item compared with the materials expense and labor time you'd spend making them. So you could just buy them and weld to your frame.

My '70 bird didn't have the rear bar brackets because it started life as an Esprit rather than a Formula or Trans Am which would have had factory brackets.


Spanky McWeasel

New Member
Feb 23, 2021
A parallel bar 4-link is pretty much the worst suspension you can run in a 2nd gen. There are inherent geometry issues that come into play because of packaging issues with the LCA's. The LCA needs to be ~42 inches long in this application to avoid binding. This would require cutting out the floor plan and putting the mount up near the driver's seat.
There are other options (Torque arm, 3-link, Truck Arm, Lotus Link) but frankly, in most applications, they are a waste of money on a streetcar.
Apologies for a possible thread hijack, but does this mean I need to reconsider going with the full RideTech package? If so I'll just stick with the springs/shocks combo from DSE...



Administrator. .a car, a man, a maraca.
Staff member
Lifetime Gold Member
Mar 25, 1999
San Jose, CA, USA
RE: Ridetech: Unfortunately, the math is the math on this. Now, that said, I've seen the Ridetech cars and they seem to work quite well.
In general there are better starting points than the parallel 4-link.
I'm a firm believer that in 2nd gens, anything short of a dedicated race car, leafsprings with good shocks are on par with any other solid axle suspension system.

IF you must change the rear suspension - the torque arm is a much easier platform to start with