Hook and spin

Discussion in 'Competition Camaros' started by Blown Camaro, Apr 23, 2013.

  1. Blown Camaro

    Blown Camaro American by birth, drag racer by choice

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    This is further downtrack, suspension looks the same to me.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Blown Camaro

    Blown Camaro American by birth, drag racer by choice

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    This is how it sits at rest so you can compare.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. global warmer

    global warmer Veteran Member

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    I wounder if there is a delay from when you mashe the throttle to come up to full power, when you achieve full power you brake the tires loose.

    Have you tried full slicks?
     
  4. Blown Camaro

    Blown Camaro American by birth, drag racer by choice

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    Naw, I have 10psi boost at the hit and a 4200 stall 9.5 converter.
     
  5. global warmer

    global warmer Veteran Member

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    here is my next thought, your braking the tires loose when the shock recound comes in un loading the tires, do you have adjustable shocks? if so take a couple clicks out of the rebound to slow the shock from comming back to ride height

    If you do not have adjustable shocks you may want to grab a set
     
  6. Tokyo Torquer3

    Tokyo Torquer3 Veteran Member

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    what is your ET and MPH, Blown Camaro?

    mike
     
  7. fuzzy dice

    fuzzy dice Veteran Member

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    No, I strictly bracket race...the new 468 is finally workin' like it should...went 6.81 in the cool air and 6.89 last weekend in the soup with a +3490 DA...I will be testing the next 6 weeks...

    Next big event is the World Footbrake Challenge in July...it's up in Bristol, Tn. at thunder mountain...$10 grand to win on Friday, 20 grand on Saturday and 10 on sunday...

    BTW, where is that pic from?...
     
  8. 79CamaroZ28

    79CamaroZ28 Veteran Member

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    You need 5 inches of dropout on the back, leave 1.5 for compression. If the Car Hooks and spins while the front is in the air Chances are its doing one of two things, Either you need to tighten up the extension on the rear shocks ( you do have double adjustables right? ) and or tighten up the extension on the front shocks, If it is "Whipping" the front right to the limiters it will unload the rear. Make small adjustments..
    Also, If you are trying to "run up or preload" the converter a bunch it will actually try to plant the rear of the car and lift up on it, cuasing you to effectivly loose some rear extension when you let off the footbrake and mash the gas. Leave from just off a idle and I bet it gets better..
     
  9. 79CamaroZ28

    79CamaroZ28 Veteran Member

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    Also, With a Radial and ANY kind of power you need a lower SLR (starting line ratio). Radials DO NOT like to be Shocked. Id recommend if you have a th400 to install a 2nd gear start Transbrake valve body. OR if you have a manual Valve body just start out in 2nd gear. It will feel kinda like a pooch at first but then you get your time slip and find it went faster.

    Rear gear x trans first gear ratio is your SLR. (3.73x1.80=6.714 for example)

    Try to keep it around 6.5ish for a BBC and around 7.0 for a SBC and you will be in the ballpark for a radial.
     
  10. sponge003

    sponge003 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Interesting formula

    I struggled with slapped bars but have run against many second gens that do very well on them.
     

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