Horn relay mess removal ?

Discussion in 'Electrical Systems' started by Turbo70Camaro, Feb 2, 2014.

  1. Turbo70Camaro

    Turbo70Camaro Veteran Member Gold Member

    Messages:
    2,138
    Likes Received:
    116
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    so cal
    Hey guys I am not going to use the factory horn set up since the car never had horns on it nor does the steering wheel have the provisions anymore. Can I get rid of all this mess plus the external regulator harness without causing other issues ?.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Gary S

    Gary S Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    23,517
    Likes Received:
    1,325
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 1999
    Location:
    Bismarck, North Dakota
    I'm going to say no. You need power routed through either the regulator, or at least the regulator wiring for the alternator to work. If you determine how the factory wiring works, and trace it back to its origin, you could likely reroute the alternator/regulator power a different way.
     
  3. Turbo70Camaro

    Turbo70Camaro Veteran Member Gold Member

    Messages:
    2,138
    Likes Received:
    116
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    so cal
    Gary I have not used the factory external regulator plug since the car has been running. I have the alternator direct to the battery, my biggest worry is all the fusible linked wires going to the horn relay. If all that junk is gone is it going to comprimise other electrical components or is their no relation to other things.
     
  4. grzewnicki

    grzewnicki Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    3,505
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2009
    Location:
    Gordon from Jacksonville Fl
    The horn relay is the bus terminal in the GM charging system. Since you have one wire alternator you could get rid of the horn relay and just use a post to connect the power wires. One of those plastic blocks with a threaded stud is what I'm talking about, Just cut the spade connectors off the wires, put loop terminals on and secure them to the post and you're done.
     
  5. Turbo70Camaro

    Turbo70Camaro Veteran Member Gold Member

    Messages:
    2,138
    Likes Received:
    116
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    so cal
    Okay so the wires with the black cylinders are still needed and should be on a power post ?, how about the connector with the green wire can I make that dissapear also same question with the external regulator plug and wiring.

    Excuse the dumb questions please just trying to figure this electrical stuff out.
     
  6. Rene Melten

    Rene Melten Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    4,109
    Likes Received:
    44
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    Location:
    Blind Bay, B.C.
    The white plug with the green wire is probably for the horn so you can ditch that, but the brown wire to the voltage regulator would be worth using as I think it's for the ammeter and can also be used for a volt meter. Believe it reappears at the gauge cluster plug in the dash.
     
  7. grzewnicki

    grzewnicki Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    3,505
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2009
    Location:
    Gordon from Jacksonville Fl

    When I first looked at that I thought there was a bus bar (solid metal piece) connecting those two terminal with screws...am I right? If so then my first post is good about just using a post terminal. Green wire runs to the horns. Missing is a black wire with and end on it that looks just like the green wire, it should be on the terminal right next to the green wire, that is the wire that goes to the horn button. The regulator wiring can all go away since your using a one wire. The brown wire on the regulator did as stated above go inside the car for the amp gauge I believe. Here is a good pic of your system as it came from the factory (below), you'll notice they tie the sensing wire in at that big splice, that's why a good three wire alternator system will work better, than a one wire, from MAD electrical:

    •The alternator is the source of power used to operate the ignition system, lighting, and other electrical system parts. And the parts will deliver best performance when operating at about 14 volts. The voltage regulator will always attempt to maintain the electrical system voltage at about 14 volts. But the original wire harness will feed power to these parts from a “main junction” in the wiring, which is often far downstream from the alternator. The voltage regulator can maintain 14 volts at the “remote main junction,” if we give the regulator opportunity to read “voltage-sensing” from the junction.


    The ONE-WIRE, without REMOTE VOLTAGE-SENSING option, as an “intended up-grade” from a 55Amp externally regulated to a 100Amp ONE-WIRE can result with dim lights, weak ignition, and weak performance in general. (Especially so when a factory-original” type wire harness system is used.) And at M.A.D. we have received many phone calls from people who have experienced the result of such conversions.



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014

Share This Page