How to convince an alignment shop?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by biker, Sep 14, 2020.

  1. John Wright

    John Wright Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I have an early set that had the knurled steel sleeves vs the hex aluminum sleeves, so there could be some differences in lengths too. I welded a hex nut to my sleeves so I could adjust with a wrench....I was worried that I couldn't turn them with the full weight of the car sitting on the ground.
     
  2. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Good idea! Thanks man.
     
  3. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Ok. So far, I dont see an issue with my aluminum sleeves, but I'm not at the settings I want yet.
     
  4. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    I have had the exact same experience as John Wright, as in the original SPC's had the steel arms. Front arms could be longer, and I had to cut/shorten the rear arms as well. Did the baseline in my shop, so I knew what I was up against to get the specs I wanted. I have measured center to center points, so when I go to the bigger aluminum hex, the baseline will be almost bang on.

    Used anti-seize on the contact points, and it was easily adjustable on the rack, no fuss, even with the smooth tubes.

    Here is a pic from the alignment shop today, Sept. 16th, the shop charged me 69$, and I was out in less than 1 hour. I did not even have to do anything, the young tech knew exactly what to do as he remembered from the last time a few years ago when I showed him. He remembered the car (said he could not forget it LOL), and even said how easy it was to set the camber/caster without using shims, said he wished all the race stuff he does had those arms.

    And he sees a lot of that custom/race stuff as we kinda live in a little "race engine & car" heaven out here, having fab shops/multiple engine dyno's and several tracks 15 minutes in either direction.
    IMG_0632 (002).jpg
     
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  5. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Thanks G! I'm going in at 10am today to work with the tech. Hopefully I can come close to your specs without having to modify anything. It does look like the sleeves can accommodate quite a bit of movement without running out of room or threaded area.
     
  6. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    My pleasure biker, hope it works out for you this am. You should be fine, if I'm a betting man, the only issue is you may run out of "shortness" for the rear tube, that will limit hitting your max + caster.

    If the tech starts with them both loose, and moves them, it will be easy to "see" how they move, first the front, then the rear tubes.

    Good luck, keep us posted.
     
  7. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    So here is where we are at. I'm pretty happy with the specs, nothing interfering with anything. Could probably go more on the caster, but gonna drive it for now and see how it goes. IMG_20200917_132336.jpg
     
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  8. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Ok. Drives great. Very stable at high speed, not twitchy at all. Only issue is that we set everything the same on both sides, so no accounting for road crown; wants to slowly go right, but fine on level surface. I can live with that.
    Also, caster moved the wheels back far enough to rub slightly when hitting a bump at slow speed lock turn. I'm switching to slightly smaller tire which should make that go away.
    Thanks to all for your help.

    Brent.
     
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  9. CorkyE

    CorkyE Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    That's pretty much same setting we got with my SPC arms. Drives like it's on rails.
     
  10. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Thanks man! Hard to believe it's the same car after setting it up this way.
     
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