How would you build a 10 bolt for cornering?

Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by LT1 WS6, Nov 22, 2014.

  1. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    Just like the title asks. I'm interested in hearing what changes you feel are necessary to make an 8.5" 10 bolt go around corners reliably. My car is a street car mainly so nothing too hardcore. I'm not keeping my current rear end under the car. I figured I might as well address some of the stock 10 bolt's short comings and build it more for it's intended purpose with the new rear end.

    Thanks
     
  2. big gear head

    big gear head Veteran Member

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    If you just want to do some auto cross then I would recommend installing a Eaton Truetrac and a good rebuild. That is about all you need for something mild.

    If you want to go road racing and get serious then I would recommend either a full floating rear end or at least install Moser housing ends with the tapered roller axle bearings. Moser also makes special axles for road racing that have a stronger flange on the end to reduce deflection. This also helps with piston kick-back in the brake calipers. The full floating axle would be best, but pretty pricy.
     
  3. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    Thanks gear head. I'm mainly a canyon carving street car. I may one day do an HPDE class but there's no telling. Do you feel I would be ok keeping the c-clips autoxing the car on sticky tires with mid 400 tq at the wheels?

    Can you point me towards those Moser ends with the tapered bearings? I'm only aware of Strange's c-clip eliminator kit with tapered bearings. I'm not too keen on the fact that it's only bolt on though. I would think something more robust would be the smarter way to go knowing the car will be thrown into corners.

    Thanks
     
  4. big gear head

    big gear head Veteran Member

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    Moser housing ends 7900 for drum brakes, or 7900FM for disc brakes. These are weld on housing ends and require special axles to go with them. I can't say for sure if c clips would be all right or not. The sticky tires make it hard to predict.
     
  5. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    Thanks for the housing end number. That was my thinking as well with the c clips. I'd rather do it right the first time than to have an issue.
     
  6. Skip Fix

    Skip Fix Veteran Member

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    Depending on the play on C clips it can give pad knock back if rear discs or even on my 78 TA when new let the drum hit the backing plate! Dealer never figured that out rebuilt the posi, new sway bar bushings-I found the rub markes when I did a brake job on it a couple of years later.
     
  7. Cataldo

    Cataldo Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'm having trouble understanding how a C-clip axle would have that much play, I figured there would be a few thousandths of an inch play, not enough to notice. I am in no way an expert or even a novice on this, just from memory of pulling em apart.

    I'd think there would be more flex in nearly everything else than play due to the c-clips.
     
  8. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I had .040 on one side and .020 on the other. Repalced the Axles and still had an .007 too much. I got some custome ground c clips from Tom's Differentials and got it right to about .005 on both sides. As I learned when the the axles slide in and out on a rear disk car it pushes out on the rotor and pads and causes uneven wear and other undesirable things on the rear brakes. AS I LOOKED BACK ON THE THREAD BELOW I GOT THAT FROM BGH! If this is an Autox build I would think getting the end play right would be pretty important....

    Look at the spacer fro the Tru Trac in this link below. A local guy who build a lot of rears around here said he cuts a new spacer from an old axle to the length to get the right end play and replaces the stock spacer....makes sense when you see it.

    http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282061&highlight=end+play
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
  9. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    Your link on the jeep forums isn't working 8pack. Thanks for the info though. I'll keep it in mind as I move forward.
     
  10. qn60e6

    qn60e6 Veteran Member

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    I am having a hard time wondering what your end goal is. I understand the building of a durable rear end by minimizing axle play, better gears etc. But if your suspension components cannot transfer the power to your wheels, you've defeated the purpose. Rhetorical idea here, I can have the best rear end on the market, but have so so leafs and kyb shocks my rear end will not perform as intended, but if I upgrade my leafs and better shocks, a stock rear end I believe will perform better.
     

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