How would you build a 10 bolt for cornering?

Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by LT1 WS6, Nov 22, 2014.

  1. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    You're correct. In my case I already have upgraded my suspension. The rear end is next. I may revisit the rear suspension if I don't like the way it performs. I want the rear built to handle whatever I may throw at it now and in the future.
     
  2. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    Bringing this back up because I'm close to getting the work done and want to make sure I understand the process.

    I'm looking at using the Moser 7900FM ends since they say that is the end for use with disc brakes. I want to retain the factory dimensions of the rear end even after the new 9in ends are put on. So which measurement is more important, the brake mounting flange distance or bearing distance from the housing? I need the track width to be the same when done so that I have no issues with my wheels fitting. I'm hoping I can reuse my current brake setup with no or minimal changes.

    Oh, should I change the yoke to an aftermarket piece while I'm at it as well?

    Thanks
     
  3. Dogwater

    Dogwater Veteran Member

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    Besides the axle play some new leaf springs an 2 loops over the axle tubes is important also. I went with a 150 lb. leaf spring weight on mine an I added another loop on each end, mine came with only one loop. Regular leaf springs are 128 spring weight. The 150's add a bit of stiffness to the rear but not that bad and yes you can feel the difference, I'm hearing a few new rattles. Since the whole rear end sits on the leafs there important also. The only bad thing I can say with the leafs I bought is that there loud, the plastic spacers between each leaf make a lot of noise, I had to squirt some oil on them and that helped a lot.
     
  4. big gear head

    big gear head Veteran Member

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    When you get ready to cut the ends off of the housing you need to measure the total width of the new housing end and cut that amount off of the axle tubes. Measure to the outer side of the original brake flange. I think the 7900FM ends are about 2 1/2 inches wide, so cut that off of the axle tube from the outer side of the flange. Be sure that your cut is square to the tube. I have a large pipe cutter that I use so that the cut is true.
     
  5. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    Thank you. That makes sense to me.
     
  6. Protour-Camaro

    Protour-Camaro Veteran Member

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    Not to turn you off to the project, but have you considered a Moser 12 bolt rearend? I just don't see the value to spend all the money on a 10 bolt. Cutting the axle tubes, measuring, welding Ford ends, ensuring its in a fixture etc may not be worth it for a one time deal especially if you need to procure tools to do it.

    A Moser 12 bolt will be built exactly how you need it and it will be stronger and importantly worry free.
     
  7. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    I'm having a chassis shop put the new ends on and weld the tubes for me. I'll set the diff and gears up. I've looked at the 12 bolts and 9 inch before. Every time building my 10 bolt comes in cheaper. Sure, it's only a little bit cheaper. The way I look at it though is the 10 bolt will be cheaper, lighter, rob less power, and be plenty strong enough for my needs. I also already have a C5 rear brake kit that I should be able to reuse with no to minimal changes. Changing to a different rear brake kit for a 12 bolt or 9 inch would be costly. I'm confident my path will work out. If not, I'll say so. I plan to document the build just in case anyone else every comes along asking the same questions or has the same thoughts.

    Thanks
     
  8. big gear head

    big gear head Veteran Member

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    The brakes will work on the 12 bolt just like the 10 bolt. If you order a Moser 9 inch with the 7900FM ends they will also work on it.
     
  9. LT1 WS6

    LT1 WS6 Veteran Member

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    That I did not know. For some reason, I had it in my mind that the flange was different on the 12 bolt. Thanks for the info.
     
  10. Protour-Camaro

    Protour-Camaro Veteran Member

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    Trey
    All I'm saying is I have been in your shoes before and thought the same thing. I have the works done on my 10 bolt to include nickel welding the tubes.....wish I went with a moser
     

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