Hydroboost mounting?


Veteran Member
May 4, 2001
most people who go with hydro do it because the vacuum booster is too large and no longer fits their application.
As for heat, you can just add a cooler
I was going to do hydro for the longest time, but I'm looking at getting an iBooster now

That's why I said, if you don't need to...if your engine doesn't produce adequate vacuum, you gotta do what you gotta do. But if your engine does, I wouldn't add all the extra plumbing.


Veteran Member
May 4, 2001
On my projects I've had zero issues with HB heat. The cams I used had reduced the vacuum to the booster so the brakes didn't work.
Many 3/4-1 ton trucks in the states run a HB stock from the factory.
I've tried a vacuum canister and it was a total waste of time.
I should add I'm running C5 Corvette discs all around.
In lieu of the HB you could run a manual brake master. They work you just have to press harder.
Or add a electric vacuum pump?

I road course my car and the PS pump and the fluid gets HOT! I have burned up pumps and melted reservoirs. Under normal day to day driving, you probably won't see a short term issue.

73Z L92

Veteran Member
Jan 25, 2011
Carlos, MN
I don't have a good pic of the Mustang PS pump but it didn't have an attached tank. Per Paul's instructions use a "filtered" remote reservoir. More fluid means lower temps?
I've never ran my rod rods on the track but I spent 3 hour inline on the Power Tour mostly creeping at 5 mph to get into the venue and no issues heat wise.

Fan SS

New Member
Feb 13, 2022
Amarillo TX
The top hole is correct for manual brake master with deep hole in piston and no binding will occur with this set-up which gives proper pedal ratio for manual brakes only. Bottom hole is for power brake set-up with shallow hole in master piston. With this set-up propper geometry is accomplished with the booster rod with an eyed end on pedal. The booster rod goes in the shallow piston on the master cylinder, also no binding. To use a manual brake set-up on a car that was not factory with manual brakes you have to drill a hole in your brake pedal about 1" above the factory hole for power brakes. If you have two holes in your brake pedal, the manual brake hole (the one on top) is already there. Some power brake boosters come with a rod extension that will allow you to use a deep hole master cylinder. Manual brake master cylinders for my 70 SS with factory drums on the rear and single piston calipers in front needs a 1" bore and the power brake set-up requires a 1-1/8" bore. The trick is the bracket to actuate the brake lights will need a little modifying. Was a worry, but not a big problem. Hope this helps.


Veteran Member
Apr 14, 2016


Dec 11, 2016
Channelview TX
thanks that’s really helpful, my 77 also has a big block waiting in the corner. Is that the ali firewall adapter that comes with the classic performance kit and is the push rod connected to the upper or lower pivot point on the pedal?

NZ has pretty strict rules regarding modified vehicles, similar to Australia and some parts of Europe. Imagine an NHRA tech inspection but more rigorous and completed by a certified engineer. Changing the rod position changes the pedal ratio which opens a can of worms and I‘d also prefer to have the correct pedal ratio for power assisted brakes.
You are right about Europe and vehicle inspections. I took a 69 Camaro SS to Germany that could pass any inspection easily in the US. It failed the inspection there for things you never expect to have checked in the US. Makes me build better cars here after that and I even carry a warning triangle and first aid kit now.

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