I NEED ADVICE

Discussion in 'High Performance Modifications' started by Josh M, Jun 28, 2020.

  1. Josh M

    Josh M New Member

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    I did use diesel oil for initial break in as I was told to do and I will watch this video and go from there I appreciate the link to it!
     
  2. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    To add to the great insight already mentioned, for the break-in period, did you use the outer springs only?, or was this broken in with the full spring set the heads came with.

    Back in the day, I would use Shell T3, heck, I used whatever was there, but given the latest cam lobes these days, and perhaps the questionable materials that may come into play in certain product lines, your taking a risk.

    I, along with my partner do not use the "diesel" oils anymore for the most part (unless super mild/stock, and that's not often), not worth it, the ZDDP is down, detergent up, and after all the labour and parts costs involved building & assembling, not to mention the higher parts cost, there's no good reason NOT to use a quality break-in oil, many available that work for this exact purpose.

    In my view, the carnage may have started with a combination of much spring pressure, the wrong oil, and when the lifters grinding down, the slop in the lash smashed the rockers.

    Caution on the video, not arguing against it, actually it's bang on the money and what I reach for IF the valvetrain parts design and geometry allows you to attain those specs.

    But, in some (SBC) cases, a typical stud mount arrangement may not allow you to get there. Some rocker designs are better than others, and some of those fall into the low pivot arena instead of the mid lift as the video states, regardless of pushrod length.

    Crower manufactures stud mount rollers with a "back set" trunion for this purpose, but at almost 800$ for a complete set, your past the half way point of a shaft.
     
  3. Josh M

    Josh M New Member

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  4. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    When I broke in my last solid lifter cam I left the old springs in that had about 43,000 mi on them, then after some miles on the cam I swapped the springs.
     
  5. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    [QUOTE="Josh M, post: 3785298, member: 90137 "Yes despite reading otherwise I was told by other guys with sbcs I know are bad ass and they’ve been doing it a long time that they don’t remove springs for the break in period so I didn’t either/QUOTE]

    Perhaps they ones who told you that what they did, (or did not do) used low ratio "break-in" rockers, or tool steel lifters with EDM's, or better yet tool steel w/DLC or casidium coated lifter, or other core case cam hardening processes, again assuming it's a solid cam, need to get the full story.

    I'm certain you do not want this happening again.
     
  6. Lowend

    Lowend Administrator. .a car, a man, a maraca. Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Josh - let me make a strong recommendation here:
    After something coming apart that hard, the engine probably needs to be torn down. You've likely got all sorts of metal in the bearings etc.

    Since most of the valvetrain is going to need to be replaced anyway, I highly recommend going to a Hydraulic Roller Cam.
    I consider any flat-tappet cam to be somewhat of a time-bomb at this point.
     
  7. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    To add, after losing 2 solid lifter cams I went to a hyd roller. You can have your FT cams and whatever luck you have with them. I used the best oils and still lost a lobe. With Chinese mixed steel and a it’s good enough attitude with today’s hardening process, it’s no longer for me. I’ve had my roller going on for 8 yrs now with no issues. I still use good oil with ZDDP in it.
     
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  8. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    X2 on tearing the whole thing down.

    And if one has to start from scratch, (cam/lifters/pushrods/springs) and combined with having somewhat limited HP engine building experience, save the coin and go hyd roller all the way.
     

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