Just pulled trigger on FiTech

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by 408maro, Mar 6, 2016.

  1. 408maro

    408maro Veteran Member

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    I do believe if I run its timing control option I can adjust more. I will have to see if I can adjust those.

    It don't smell as if it's rich it smells like straight fuel as if it's leaking but can not tell anywhere that it is.
     
  2. JWZ28

    JWZ28 Veteran Member

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    My car runs so much better now that timing control is enabled so I don't think that you would regret that at all. You might find that with it enabled the fuel injection wants a faster timing curve.
     
  3. Itsadryheat79

    Itsadryheat79 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    What distributor are you using?

    What distributor are you using?

    I'm trying to pick one now for a project and from the FiTech docs (Figure 12) this is an important consideration for the timing control. I'm going to use a MSD 6A box and looking at the MSD-8361 dist but it's expensive and probably overkill.

    When I inquired to FiTech sales tech line looking for a recommendation.
    Question:
    "Do you have to use a old school breaker-point ignition system or is there something better?"
    Answer:
    To run timing control you must have a locked out 2-wire magnetic pickup coil. You can use timing control with just a coil or a CDI box. To use the CDI box the EFI system triggers the coil via the points trigger wire of the CDI.
     
  4. JWZ28

    JWZ28 Veteran Member

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    The MSD Atomic system required me to run the MSD Pro Billet 85551

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-85551

    It had to be locked out (which you can do as a feature with this model) and a phasable rotor. I also had to use an ignition box.

    This is the how-to for the Atomic EFI.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1aiR0nw3Tk
     
  5. 408maro

    408maro Veteran Member

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    I have the same distributor. I was thinking of running the fitech timing control and may eventually and also will have to lock out the distributor to do so.

    Here is a video I did today. Not so happy with quality though. I'm sorry
    https://youtu.be/5JBr7ggOqn8
     
  6. JWZ28

    JWZ28 Veteran Member

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    What was going on when the rpms dropped out?
     
  7. 408maro

    408maro Veteran Member

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    I had opened the cutouts and them closed.

    Here is another video I did on my go pro. I may redo the first one with my gopro.
    https://youtu.be/eAGFekAORLU
     
  8. JWZ28

    JWZ28 Veteran Member

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    The sucking noise is definitely the IAC. If you have an auto trans and can adjust the throttle blades, I'd adjust it so that the IAC reading is between 5-15 when the engine is at operating temp (Between 10-20 for manual). This was the recommendation with my system and I've found that throttle blade adjustment really affects how well it idles and runs.
     
  9. 408maro

    408maro Veteran Member

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    Thank you. I will try that. Mine is a manual so I'll put it to about 10-20 when warm as you mentioned and see how it goes
     
  10. 408maro

    408maro Veteran Member

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    Buddy invited me to a dyno day his car Club had and she did 323hp with 360tq. Not to bad but I know she can do more
     

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