The Knock sensors can be turned off in the tune, if they're not it will set a code. The calibration your engine builder did on the dyno is probably just a basic tune to get it running and safe at wot. once you get the car drivable I would take it and get it tuned on a chassis dyno. RPM Motorsports in Garner does a good job of getting the drivability on the street worked out.
Thanks for the tip on RPM. I was considering them and a couple others in the area that are supposed to be pretty good. So just to clarify, I don't need to buy knock sensors (not equipped with any at the moment) and install them for the time between when I first crank it and when I take it to get tuned (I plan on doing that very soon after)? " The stock ECM was modified by Mamo right?" My ECM was not used on the dyno.
That wouldn't help me. Probably wouldn't be any better than the one that came on the ECM. I had planned on getting a tune anyway - not a big deal...
Richard, With the combination you went with...worked heads, bigger injectors, camshaft, more cubes etc. the stock ECM tune is way off to run that engine. If someone ran that engine to break it in and do some dyno pulls, some sort of ECM was calibrated to run that engine properly. Importantly the fuel injector calibrations....I would recommend you ask the builder to tune your ECM to the calibration used to run it. For the kind of investment you made on it, small price for the builder to pay IMHO. This will greatly make any chassis dyno tunes easier.
LS knock sensors .. don't get me started. At least they finally wised up and moved them OUTSIDE the block (like an LT1) so the engine doesn't crap out every couple months. Early in block, under intake location : Later when the GM engineers pulled their heads out (a little) : Tom
maybe I can get my buddy Dave to come over with me and check it out for/with you & explain things? He does all his own tuning and he is real familiar with LS engines and stuff that I dont understand lol, he is pretty good though.