Leaf spring set up questions

the over steer issue will be caused by the solid front eye bushing, the Caltracs will make this worse especially if you are trying to make the car handle on the street.
Caltracs are good if you build a drag car.
What is the more "modern " design of the GW leafs?
For example our leaf springs are built like the GW's the only thing different is that they do not have a "tight" leaf pack to lessen inter leaf friction and binding.
Our GT leaf spring will match the Hotchkis fronts but you also could use our Comp rear leafs with the Spherical bearing it works very well in higher powered cars without the need for traction devices and no binding due to the solid front eye bushing and you may use your rear sway bar.

BTW the reason GW says to not use the rear sway bar with the Del-alum (solid ) front eye bushing is because it causes so much bind and the rear end housing becomes the sway bar....that's a heck of a big bar...lol

If you are in Dixon Il you may want to take a ride to the shop here

 

well the caltracs will cause bind because as they apply pressure to the top of the leaf spring the leaf springs are forced to move the opposite direction from there natural movement.
With the stiffer springs you should not need a traction device anyway.
The GT leafs come with a rubber front eye.
but the Comps with the spherical bearing would work better at fighting wheel hop because there is no radial deflection of the bushings yet it allows the leaf spring to camber and follow the movement of the rear end housing without binding.

 

Here is a pic of a Global West L-2 spring with an 1 1/4"drop.
The only unique design about these is the location of the 2'nd spring, look and see how close it is to the front spring eye.
Haven't seen this on any other spring to date.

 

I have the global west L3's.They are similar to the L2's with a slightly higher spring rate.Like Rene said,I never seen a leaf configuration like theirs on the market.The ride is a little firm and they don't wheel hop and I tried with 400 hp 350.

 

What Rene pointed out on the GW spring is to help control wheel hop(spring wrap). This eliminated the need for the slapper bars.

Solid bushings in the spring eyes are for going straight...this is counter-intuitive for carving corners, you need for the axle to articulate if it is going to be effective in the curves and over uneven road surfaces. If the axle cannot articulate, it will bind up and there is where your oversteering comes in. The spherical bearing that can be installed in either the front eye or in the rear shackles to help the axle articlate is similar to what the off-road guys call a Johnny Joint.

 

I have the Hotchkis 1.5 drop springs. No wheel hop. 420 hp to the rear wheels. One nice thing about the Hotchkis (maybe others too) is that leaf spring "wrap" thingie that keeps the spring leafs squared together is positioned so it misses the tire. Gives you just a little more room slightly more back space.