LS/Vintage Air swap questions/direction electrical

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by Rad71z28, Apr 30, 2020.

  1. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    May 4, 2001
    This post is too long...I’ll come back to read it all. As for switched power for the ECM, I used the factory HEI ignition wire. Nothing else needs constant cranking power so things like VA are hooked into things like my radio wire.
  2. mrfleet12

    mrfleet12 Veteran Member

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    Aug 8, 2014
    West of Chicago IL
    Here's something to think about, I tried to keep as much off the old fuse panel as I could, so this is how I set mine up..
    I bought a separate fuse panel to manage all by constant 12V power and my switched power. For constant 12V, I have a wire coming in direct from the battery with a fuse inline. For the switched 12V, I have that same power coming in to a relay and that relay is operated off a switched wire from the old fuse panel to create switched power in the new fuse box. This way all the wires operating my ECM, stereo, amp etc are managed through new wiring, all my turn signals, lights etc are managed off the old fuse box.
    It was pretty simple to wire up.
  3. linenoise

    linenoise Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Apr 17, 2000
    I been designing this too thinking through parts. I got a wire kit from painless. I like the new lighting wiring but there is a ton of overlap. Gonna take alot of wire pulls to get rid of all extras. Here is how I am doing it. kinda like what mrfleet said.
    engine ran by its harness. mount ECU in console and run engine lines out new fw hole. use alternator 2 wire connection for the exciter function. AC pump wiring from that too inside run it to the wires from VA ECU(clean passthrough). all engine plugs of course. It has a fuel pump connection but its ran from power line not relay. Will use that power line from ecu to trigger a relay for pump. it draws major amps. Will run a resetable breaker near fw for a large wire and come in vent where the ac lines go in and out in kick panel. Fans ran off a relay.
    Sep breaker for audio amps, fans in front for cooling and fuel pump, so two runs into car. do not want amp shutting off gas if something pops.
    painless will do all steering column, lighting, gauges, dome, door open trip switches etc. I will use extra wires not used in harness for the few that go from Vintage air to engine compartment so I do not have to use the hole they give ya on the cover up panel. I covered panel with a DSE plate anyways and weld sealed in that area.
    You need large power cable from batt to starter. and from starter same post to alt charge connection. Than run your inside power lines talked about above from this connection too. breaker it in fw area.
    Grounds, not done right can fry your stuff. I am going to run battery to block. block to fw fender mounting bolts. they screw right into front frame/body area. Also run a batter ground since its close to rad support for lights and fans. I am still thinking about this but I got a DSE subframe I am not wanting to drill into. subframe does not need ground. engine grounded. body grounded. and radiator support grounded. subframe has no electrical comp on it. be grounded through mount bolts anyways from body.
    Not fully settled but this is starter plan.
  4. 75Maro

    75Maro Veteran Member

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    Mar 31, 2008
    Any other pics of the vintage air system

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